Acton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Sixteenth-century inn ‘the Pant’ (as owners Brunning & Price fondly call it) occupies a substantial, “very comfortable” Victorian property a short drive outside Wrexham; and its conversion has created “a great pub: warm and bustling in the winter, loads of outside space in the summer” and offering a “reliably good beer selection” too. Given its high standards, the odd reporter this year did quibble with the food, but overall this “very busy” destination remains a “favourite year after year”.

This unusually grand and “busy gastropub” near the gates of the Duke of Westminster’s Cheshire estate is “probably the best Brunning & Price”. “We’ve eaten here many times over the years, and while the food has had its ups and downs, recently it’s been of top quality” – “it’s best to avoid weekends though, as it can get very busy: the price of success!” Top Tip – lovely garden in summer.

This Georgian pub near the city’s picturesque racecourse, from the Brunning & Price stable, is popular for its “wonderful location and comforting decor”. Reports on the food are more muted, although “if you like fish ’n’ chips you’ll love it – they offer more combinations of batter/fish/sides than most places”. It was built by prominent Chester architect Thomas Harrison as his own home – hence the unusual name.

2021 Review: “Small but perfectly formed” – this “tiny place with an open-plan kitchen” tucked away off Northgate Street serves “wonderful food” with “great depth of flavour” and “you’re really well looked after” too.

2022 Review: USDA steaks and other meaty treats – alongside a Manhattan-esque vibe – have won local renown for this swish steakhouse in the city centre. Closed for much of the pandemic, in October 2021 the venue finally announced its return via Instagram and its website: “You may have noticed some building work taking place over the last couple of months…we are beyond excited and thrilled to finally announce that we will be back in the New Year… We have some exciting plans to transform our iconic home in the Olde Custom House Building… Our team of chefs and bartenders are already hard at work behind the scenes developing an exciting new food and drink menu… don’t worry, your old favourites will still feature!”.

Chef Elliot Hill has big shoes to fill at this well-known dining room, which is one of the North West’s most consistent culinary icons, having held a Michelin star under Simon Radley from 1998-2021 (at a time when such recognition was thin on the ground in this and neighbouring counties). Lacking natural light, this stately chamber sits deep within this unusually grand provincial hotel, which is owned by the Duke of Westminster, and is right next to the city’s emblematic Eastgate Clock on its medieval walls. While acknowledging that it’s “pricey”, all reports are very positive on the start he’s made with a “scrumptious five-course tasting menu”; staff who “make you feel valued and well looked after”; and the “elegant, comfortable and quiet (but not too quiet!)” interior. “An incredible, if expensive, experience” that’s “well set to regain his predecessor’s accolades”.

In the shadow of the Eastgate Clock, this glam pavement-side brasserie (the second restaurant in a fine old hotel in the city centre) makes a luxurious spot to break from retail therapy in this shopping-mad city. There’s a “varied menu”, and although results have been “up and down” over time, locals say that “of late it’s much improved”. Top Menu Tip – “always oysters” (served with a selection of Champagnes).

It would be “difficult to find a more perfect setting” for a pub than this former watermill “nestling on the side of the River Dee, with decking overhanging the water and stunning views in all directions” – “in the evening there are candlelit tables with views looking out from the mill building, some situated directly above the original water wheel”. “Part of the Brunning & Price chain, it offers well prepared and varied food on a daily changing menu” and “a large selection of wines to suit all pockets”.

Feedback is more limited than we would like, but is enthusiastic over this grey-hued boutique hotel dining room, run from afar by game expert Mike Robinson. Chef Dan Regan oversees the preparation of a menu that majors in 40-60 day, dry-aged beef steaks from a selection of sirloin or ribeye cuts.

2023 Review: “Marc Willkinson is a genius” and “never fails to impress” at his “compact” venue – an unexpected find “off the beaten track” out on The Wirral, in a conservation village bordering Birkenhead. It has, on several occasions, topped our diners’ poll as the UK’s No. 1 destination. With just a dozen covers, it’s very much one man’s labour of love with its “imaginative visuals and playlist”, not to mention his really “unusual” and distinctive cuisine, delivered as a six-course tasting menu. Save space for the end of the meal: chef really knows his way around pudding and chocolates. Early in 2022, there was news that the restaurant was to close, but this is not the case. Marc is hunting for new premises, though, and if he finds them change will be afoot.

“We had heard the hype and were very pleasantly surprised that it lived up to it!” – Gary Usher’s original venture in his nowadays-famous Elite Bistros group occupies the gentrified suburb of Hoole outside the city centre. “A small menu of reliably tasty food is provided by engaging and knowledgeable staff”, “It’s only small, so it could get a bit awkward if it was quiet, but it always seems to be bustling. I really like it here!”

2021 Review: Just a short drive outside Chester, a smartly appointed “bar and bistro in an old family grocers shop retaining much of the original features and fittings of the Georgian building” (The Gunnery). “A straightforward menu is well realised” and weekend brunch is a feature.

2023 Review: New York, London, Doha… Whitchurch – that’s been the progression for Stuart Collins and wife Frances, who started this slightly unlikely venue five years ago, bringing a level of culinary ambition that was previously unknown to this corner of the Shropshire/Cheshire borders. Helped by a star turn from Stuart on Great British Menu a couple of years ago, it continues to attract some “outstanding all round” reviews for its 9-course tasting menu (at £85 per person).

This “lovely, cosy pub” in “a nice location in rural Cheshire” wins admirers for its “exceptionally friendly and helpful staff”, who are “a credit to Brunning & Price”, the Chester-based national chain. “We tried it on spec, and have been back several times since”.

“Bistro meets pub to create a really enjoyable experience” at Gary Usher’s year-old gastropub, which opened in early 2023. It’s off to a smooth start (“we ate on the fourth day of opening, and expected some minor teething troubles, but there were none!”) and seems to succeed in his original aim, which was ‘to serve great drinks, delicious unpretentious food by a team that love what they do’ (even despite a minor furore in the national press over the pricing of a £20 burger).

2023 Review: Chef Harry Guy (ex-Savoy Grill and Mallory Court Hotel) will open his debut restaurant in Wildes Group’s new Chester boutique hotel in 2023 (originally scheduled for mid 2022), by ‘The Cross’ at the ancient heart of this picturesque town. The venue itself sounds quite a ‘do’: with 18 bedrooms, rooftop pool, amphitheatre sauna and terrace with views overlooking the city. An “invitingly dark” dining room is promised, and setting its sights on becoming “one of the finest restaurants in the country”.