Charing Cross, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Within a “luxurious and pampering” five star, the “unpretentious but stylish setting” of TV-star Tom Kerridge’s high-ceilinged chamber provides a “wonderful” yet relaxed atmosphere to suit most types of occasion and the place is “always busy”. However, the bill for the posh brasserie fare is “eye-watering” – to fans “pricey but terrific”, but critics opine that “some gastropubs do this better for half the cost… but then again you are in The Corinthia”. Top Tip – unbelievably good-value set lunch, for £15 per person.

Dazzling rooftop views accompany a trip to this landmark chamber overlooking the rooftops of Trafalgar Square towards Parliament. As part of the NPG’s refurb it has been re-designed by design studio Brady Williams and re-opened in early July 2023 with acclaimed chef, Richard Corrigan at the helm. The bar operation has been beefed up and offerings will include a light afternoon tea and chef’s dining counter (plus launch set lunch and pre-theatre menus from £29 per head).

2023 Review: “Love it… I always feel like a spy when I drink there…” – London’s oldest wine bar (est. 1890), near Embankment tube, is worth a visit for its “great interior” alone, with ancient brick-lined vaults, but it also boasts one of the capital’s biggest outside terraces. You no longer queue for the cold cuts, cheese and pies – they bring them to you with waiter service. The “excellent selection of wines” is by far the greater attraction.

2021 Review: In the heart of the West End, this decidedly glam yearling scored better in our survey than the mixed rep it received in press reviews. The first UK outpost of a 30-strong international chain hailing from India and the Gulf, its repertoire of tapas-y offerings are very much of the funky, evolved school of Indian cuisine, and reporters salivate over “an amazing choice of inventive dishes” that are “far better than you would expect” in this touristy locale.

Anthony Demetre’s “combination of balance, tastes and textures” inspires fans of this “grand hotel dining room” off Trafalgar Square (“a far cry from his original restaurant of this name” in Mayfair). It’s most nominated for a “solid business lunch” although “the tasting menu is lovely” and also wins recommendations for it as a foodie destination in its own right. A setting that’s “classy” to supporters, though, can – to critics – seem “a little soulless”; and service doesn’t always live up to the occasion. Top Tip – “the set lunch and early evening menus offer excellent value”.

“Pre or post-theatre, very much a favourite over many years” – this elegant seafood bar was added adjacent to the main restaurant fifteen years ago, and its more laid-back style means it’s tailor-made for a luxurious bite and glass of fizz. That said, it’s become “quite pricey” over time, and doesn’t have quite the dazzling golden glow of yesteryear.

To instant acclaim two years ago, Jack Croft and Will Murray transplanted their renowned Heddon Street residency, known for its “interesting” small plates, to this large (150-cover) site, with open kitchen, chef’s counter and bar, at the southern end of Haymarket. All accounts this year continue to vaunt its cooking and “fun” style, but ratings weakened across the board amidst a general feeling it risks becoming a victim of its own success: “it felt a bit rushed…”; “the food was good, but prices were crazy…” Top Tips – “smoked cod’s head? Yes please!”; and breakfast is now available here both weekends and weekdays, and is highly recommended.

“A go-to place for top USDA steaks” – this unusual space, hewn out of the old circle of the former Hippodrome Theatre, is worth a trip, with food that’s much better than you might expect. It’s great value too (perhaps as a loss leader to get you into the casino?), making it ideal as a pre-theatre option; and on Monday you can BYO wine. NB. Under 25s must have ID.

“On more than one occasion we have observed someone ‘popping the question’ here!” – the “magical” setting “never fails to impress” at this Covent Garden oasis, yet again voted London’s No.1 venue for romance in our annual diners’ poll. “Sitting in the conservatory is a joy, especially in good weather when the retractable roof is open” and its “most beautiful interior courtyard is tailormade for a date”. “The largely Provençal and Tuscan cuisine is good but the star of this show is the magnificent wine list, with choices from around the world and prices to suit all budgets. The only recommendation is to read the wine list at home in advance, otherwise you’ll spend the first hour ignoring your date!”.

With its “good short menu” of “delicious” (if sometimes “very rich”) dishes; “very friendly service and great atmosphere”, this is a “cosy, charming little restaurant in Covent Garden”. It’s a sibling to Kitty Fisher’s in Shepherd Market, Mayfair – both named after historical local ladies of the night – and ideal for a “relaxed” occasion.

With the “lovely decor” replicated from the Theatreland icon for which they are branded, Richard Caring’s “always buzzy” spin-offs have found a gigantic audience nationally. But “these places live off the name for sure” and “it’s the ambience that keeps them going” – while fans say the food is “reliable”, more sceptical types dismiss it as “conveyor-belt cooking”; and say service is merely so-so. Some branches are better than others: best in London is ‘Chelsea Garden’, which has the same “distinctly average” standards as the others, but reliably offers an “uplifting” atmosphere and “great people watching” (and “on a sunny afternoon there is literally NO WHERE ELSE TO BE but its large garden. HEAVEN!!”). Also worth mentioning is the outlet by The Thames in SE1: “excellent views of Tower Bridge”, “even better if outside in summer and convenient for The Bridge Theatre”.

“This intimate little counter-dining venue” in an ancient pub that nowadays finds itself part of Chinatown “shows levels of skill and technique to compete with much better-known places that leave you with a far higher bill”. James Goodyear has taken over from Luke Selby (the latter departing to be head chef at Le Manoir), but all reports swoon over “a truly special experience” and a multi-course tasting menu that’s “absolutely exceptional”. “Love the counter-top layout of the restaurant and the chefs are very happy to talk, explaining in detail how things are made (important to me because I am a very keen cook!)”. “It has a buzzy vibe and is a bit of a squeeze (in both space and time), making it a very different formula than nearby Aulis. Having said that, the cooking is consistently delightful, imaginative and bold. The menu feels well thought-through, building and balancing as it progresses”. “File it under ‘one to watch’ as they plan to build out the ambition even further”: from mid-2023 they are opening on Monday nights and also incorporating their wine bar, The Mulwray, and the pub, The Blue Posts, into the overall offering at Evelyn’s Table.

Gordon Ramsay’s two-year-old tenure has yet to dazzle at this Thames-side dining room (which, two years ago – when Gordon took it over – returned to the name under which it was launched in 1890 and has traded under for much of the last century). From its days as Kaspar’s (RIP), it continues a fish and seafood theme – now with a fashionable raw bar – and there are also a few meat grills on the menu. But few dishes catch the eye from the somewhat “unremarkable” selection and it can be “difficult to find something you fancy”. And, when they arrive, too often results are “only moderately good” or plain “disappointing”.

The eclipse of this former icon of Theatreland by the nationwide chain it spawned (and its adjoining club) is continuing, and the volume of feedback it inspired sank significantly this year. A fair amount of glam still remains, but the A-listers are long gone, and standards are “hit and miss nowadays” to the extent that it too often delivers an experience that’s “overpriced, formulaic and mediocre”.

“A quiet oasis on the fringe of messy Soho” – this hotel comes complete with a cute and rather unexpected courtyard and makes a “great setting” for a “comfortable and reasonably priced afternoon tea”. The food at other times is “comforting but not exciting”, although the set menu offers “good value for pre-theatre dining”.

Dating from 1867, this fine Soho landmark should be famous, but has slipped off the restaurant map in recent years: initially due to its indifferent standards; and then due to Soho House’s purchase of the building, and its closure to non-members since 2019. In July 2023, the club once again threw open its doors to the hoi polloi, with a food operation now run by the team behind the Stoke Newington pub The Clarence Tavern. Fingers crossed, this promising partnership helps it recoup some of its old mojo, rather than descending once again into the Theatreland tourist trap mode that’s dogged it since PizzaExpress founder, the late Peter Boizot, sold it on in 2002.

“The lovely Soho institution above this legendary pub” (where de Gaulle is said to have composed some of his speeches during WWII) is currently “in the very safe hands of Neil Borthwick” (Angela Hartnett’s hubbie). There’s “wizardry afoot” here but “no faff or fancy” – by “doing simple but really excellent things to top produce but not doing much to it” he creates “a tight menu of absolute bangers”, with “big flavours singing out” (“a plate of greens can be as full of oomph as a tartare or a chop”). “Staff are tremendous” and for many reporters this is “a go-to destination in the West End”.

“Like being in an old fashioned Parisian brasserie”, this big venue, “centrally located by Covent Garden Piazza”, provides a “hectic but impressive” backdrop to a meal. Many reporters feel “it has a whole lot going for it”, but even they often acknowledge either “seriously poor” cooking, or the trade-offs that a visit entails: “Yes it’s on the pricey side and the food is average really, but it’s still a tradition that we enjoy.”

Snug Soho bar, whose superior wine list belies its founding by two Master Sommeliers: Gearoid Devaney and Xavier Rousset. To help soak up the vino: well-rated small plates, cheese and charcuterie. Top Tip – head here in the wee hours: it’s open till 3am later in the week.