Bushey, Mediterranean Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “Just reopened and even better than before”, this ultra-lux country-house hotel has an unusual ‘high-concept’ buffet-style dining room inspired by Asian food halls, with chefs cooking at eight ‘live action food stations’ (robata grill, seafood, tandoor oven et al), from which guests choose as much as they want. It’s not fine dining, but it is good-value in its way and it’s something-for-everyone style suits entertaining or a family get-together.

“Long established in St Albans”, and part of a five-strong, sustainability-oriented chain, this glass-roofed outfit by the cathedral continues to please with its “jolly good” bistro cooking (the latter recommended for its “consistent quality” and equally “good value”).

2021 Review: This “very good modern Turk” uses high-quality ingredients, including organic meats from Wales, to produce some interesting meals in this under-served town, and it “gets busy and can be very noisy”. There’s a spinoff branch in Berkhamsted.

Under a picturesque Georgian terrace, close to St John-in-Hampstead church, this basement tapas bar is a prime destination in the area thanks to its “consistently delicious food, attentive staff” and “lovely atmosphere”. The menu adds Italian elements to its Spanish core, and there’s a “very good wine selection”.

This “superb, cosy local” in Belsize Park now also has an offshoot that’s proving “a great addition to St John’s Wood”. The focus is on “interesting food cooked with fire” from chef-owner Jake Finn (ex-LPM and The Ritz), who takes inspiration from Mediterranean, Peru and Japan: “a sharing concept from a menu that’s not huge but with good variety and lots of veggie options”. Both sites provide “wonderful combinations, simply done”, with meat, fish and veggies that are “both charred and succulent”. “It’s not inexpensive, but great value given the quality of ingredients and cleverness of the cuisine”. Top Menu Tip – “whole sea bream, fennel, radish and fresh herbs is a standout”.

2022 Review: Burnt oranges, creams and walnut decor (from groovy designers Sella) aim to evoke the ’70s at this retro Notting Hillbilly store, where a bite in the ground-floor restaurant is a warm up for browsing the vintage-style clothing from Sister Jane above. The funky, Latin-American inspired bites are created by ex-Chiltern Firehouse chef Kai Rykowski, and the Cha Cha team runs a bar on the rooftop, too. (Cha Cha also operates at Mayair’s Mercato Metropolitano, and used to have a bar in Maida Vale, now RIP).

A “top pub garden” is the trump card of this handsome, green-tiled tavern on the Chiswick-Acton border, and it’s backed up by “super-attentive service, great food” and “a lively buzz”. It’s been “consistently good” in its current guise for more than 20 years.

“Run by Michel Roux’s daughter” Emily and her husband Diego Ferrari (former head chef of Le Gavroche), this Notting Hill five-year-old “gives us the best of two culinary worlds: French and Italian”. The “precise, thoughtful and delicious dishes (celeriac, crab, turbot, veal)…” are “real high-end comfort food” and the “dining room is cool and buzzy without being overly formal”. “Both wine list and cheeseboard are on the conservative side, but none the worse for that”; and “the Italian sommelier has an encyclopaedic knowledge of Italian wines and will always steer us to something new and unusual”. Some reports note a “post-Covid blip amidst staff changes”, and a slip in ratings generally backs up those who feel the experience is “not bad, and better than average, but not quite the quality it was previously”. Top Tip – “lunch is particularly good value”.

This “decent Notting Hill Italian” is “always mobbed (and the back area is particularly noisy), but the basic fare is great quality and the service is smiley”. It has notched up a quarter of a century, and spawned two offshoots in the same street – Essenza and Osteria Basilico.

“Great Roman-style crispy pizzas” along with a full selection of tapas, starters, “ever-changing Italian main courses” and a “fun Notting Hill vibe” ensure that this smart pub conversion is “a definite step up from the pizza chains” while “still reasonable value”. Two offshoots further west – the Oak W12 near Ravenscourt Park and the Bird in Hand at Brook Green – repeat the trick.

“Stunning salads, amazing pastries” and a “lovely variety of interesting prepared dishes” have stood the test of time at Yotam Ottolenghi’s “vibrant” deli-cafés – still hugely popular 22 years on from the launch of the first in Notting HIll. The Israeli-born chef and writer has had an enormous influence on the way people shop, eat and cook, helping to create a whole category of modern Middle Eastern cookery and “totally living up to his reputation as a leading expert in vegetarian cuisine” – even though his premises serve meat and fish. An occasional quibble – “the prices? Too high for a few stalks of broccoli even taking into account the undoubtedly skills of the Chef!”

A “favourite in West London” – this very popular hostelry sits on “a quiet tree-lined street” near Ravenscourt Park, and has a small, sunny outside terrace. Its legions of fans say it’s “the perfect gastropub” thanks to its “continually brilliant food” over many years, its “perfectly informal service” and its “cosy and intimate” style. “It still feels like a pub and not a restaurant, but the cooking is better than practically any other pub and most restaurants”.

2021 Review: With its “lovely sunny courtyard” and gracious interior, Harcourt Inns’ Chiswick yearling represents a successful realisation of the potential of this big, very characterful building (formerly Carvosso’s RIP, and originally Chiswick’s Victorian police station) as a chichi neighbourhood gastropub. But while the food’s consistently well-rated, anyone expecting to experience the magic of the place’s much PR’d associations with Harcourt’s chef-director Henry Harris (erstwhile patron of Knightsbridge’s legendary, but long-defunct, Racine) will likely leave disappointed by food that’s creditable pub grub for W4, but nowt more. (And in October 2020, Henry Harris parted company with the group).

This appealing café/restaurant in Notting Hill is “just a gentle place to be”, with a modern eastern Mediterranean menu inspired by founder Victoria Paltina’s visits to Tel Aviv.

2021 Review: A “wealth of wines by the glass” and “tasty nibbles”, help make this growing group of self-service wine bars a “fun way to try a selection of vintages from a multitude of small producers”. At the Battersea Power Station branch’s school you can educate your palate towards Wine & Spirit Education Trust certification and watch wine being made from grapes grown in Oxfordshire and Surrey.