Bushey, International Restaurant Guide

This smart ‘country pub’ overlooking the village pond in Totteridge, far North London, boasts a menu that ranges from steaks to sourdough pizza. But marks suffered this year on the basis of one or two reports saying recent standards have been “all a bit ‘meh’”.

This renovated Victorian tavern makes a “great location” for refuelling “if you’ve been walking on Hampstead Heath”. Its fame rests on Florrie Forde’s music-hall song from the Edwardian era, when day-tripping Cockneys would visit, not on its cooking – the latter does have its fans, but there is also the view that it is “standard pub grub and rather indifferent” at that. Top Tip – “if you use the car park, make sure you check-in with the computer screen at the bar or risk a penalty charge”.

This “ancient characterful tavern” by Hampstead Heath has hosted an impeccable list of literary tipplers in its long history from 1585, from Byron and Dickens to Bram Stoker and local poet John Keats, who listened to a nightingale in the walled garden. These days it serves “good fish ’n’ chips” and other pub staples, and an “excellent Sunday lunch”.

2021 Review: “A very small, friendly local” in the centre of Muswell Hill for over two years now; mostly it serves “delicious”, light brunch-friendly fare from breakfast onwards (“lovely healthy salad options”), but there’s a more substantial menu of simple, modern bistro dishes by night.

Not to be confused with its namesake near Hampstead tube on the other side of the Heath – this classic, traditional pub (which boasts Dickens as a former patron) sits in a beautiful slice of period Highgate, and benefits from a large outside terrace, a characterful interior and dependable grub.

This “superb, cosy local” in Belsize Park now also has an offshoot that’s proving “a great addition to St John’s Wood”. The focus is on “interesting food cooked with fire” from chef-owner Jake Finn (ex-LPM and The Ritz), who takes inspiration from Mediterranean, Peru and Japan: “a sharing concept from a menu that’s not huge but with good variety and lots of veggie options”. Both sites provide “wonderful combinations, simply done”, with meat, fish and veggies that are “both charred and succulent”. “It’s not inexpensive, but great value given the quality of ingredients and cleverness of the cuisine”. Top Menu Tip – “whole sea bream, fennel, radish and fresh herbs is a standout”.

A “fabulous bistropub” – “now also a hotel with comfortable rooms” – in a “great location” near Parliament Hill and Hampstead Heath. “Giles Coren is not wrong” – the Times columnist is a local and a big fan. Any complaints? “If only they’d turn the music down...”.

2023 Review: With an all-day menu that bounces happily from the Caribbean and Mexico to the Isle of Man and Thailand, Juliette Banner has provided up-beat service in Crouch End for more than 30 years. “A Banners breakfast is the perfect cure for a hangover” – and you can also earn one with the “great cocktails”. The “authentic American-style burgers” must have attracted Bob Dylan, the bard of Americana, whose 1993 visit is commemorated with a plaque – you can even book the table he sat at!

“Safe food and lovely decor” help maintain fans for this “beautifully decorated” and “quintessentially French” brasserie – part of the Wolseley Group, and – according to such supporters – “everything you could want from a neighbourhood restaurant”. However, even those who say it’s “one of the only decent options for a meal in St John’s Wood”, can feel that “it’s really gone downhill since the departure of the Corbin & King founders”; and a slip in ratings can be ascribed to “inconsistent” standards here this year. Top Tip – popular for breakfast.

“Great to have this restaurant on our doorstep” – Kimberley Hernandez’s superior fixture is easily missed in the strip of pizza-stops and cafés on Chiswick’s main drag; but it’s well worth discovering for its “interesting, very well-prepared and presented” (and relatively healthy) cuisine. And in April 2023, they appointed Nathan Cornwell (recently of The Barn at Moor Hall) as head chef who has, if anything, further stepped up its performance. Not sure about the home-made elderflower wine though…

This “great meeting spot” in Bayswater is “ever-popular” for its “excellent coffee and snacks” served in immaculate minimalist surroundings, from founders Mathew and Charmaine Tabatabai. The menu stretches from breakfast/brunch dishes to afternoon cocktails.

“A favourite local, always to be relied on” – this cosy, all-day fixture in Strand on the Green, from Lorraine Angliss, is still popular after 24 years. A branch in Barnes hit the buffers a while ago, but three other sister venues are still thriving – Little Bird in Battersea and Rock & Rose in Richmond and most recently Chiswick High Road.

“Now under new management”, this “small and friendly” pub – in the picturesque Hammersmith backstreets known as ‘Brackenbury Village’ – has gone from good to better. It has always been a “solid, welcoming local, with good food and well-kept beer” and its new incarnation is just that bit ‘next-level’: with its “well judged and executed seasonal menus and quality wines by the glass” it’s “buzzing”.

2021 Review: Forty wines by the glass, and 150 by the bottle are the main ‘gourmet’ attraction at this modern wine bar, near Notting Hill Gate (which, over the years, has added siblings in Fulham and Brackenbury Village). To accompany the liquid refreshment, there’s substantial fare like steaks and seared fish, or you can stick to the “great bar platters”.

On one level it’s like any other “friendly local”, but few pubs have such a picturesque location as this popular tavern, on the kind of Regency square in Kensington that makes tourists swoon (and with its own cute outside terrace). “Great pub-like food” (without any gastro pretensions) is served in its “lively” dining room. Piers Morgan throws an annual Christmas party here, hosting celeb pals from TV and politics, with Gary Lineker in regular attendance… well, nowhere’s perfect…

“Simple food done well...and the cheese!!” – this small group has basic eateries attached to their stores as well as “an enormous selection of cheese to buy at retail”. WC1 is by far the most popular outlet – “like wandering into a village restaurant in the heart of Bloomsbury”. “If you like cheese and wine, what’s not to love about this place?”

This “beautiful little restaurant with a neighbourhood feel” in Marylebone, from chef and food writer Ravinder Bhogal, offers a “wide-ranging and ever-changing selection of consistently good dishes” inspired by her ‘no borders kitchen’ philosophy. “It’s a melange of Middle Eastern, African and Indian influences” that results in “very creative flavours – not just in the cooking but also outstanding cocktails such as a Negroni with pomegranate and rose”.

2021 Review: Limited-but-upbeat feedback on this new hotel dining room: “an oasis of calm near Euston station (an area short of nice places to eat!)”. Ethical sourcing and African influences in dishes – as well as Asian ones – help take it slightly out of the mainstream, and one or two early reports say it’s “a hidden gem”.