⦿ Jay Rayner of The Observer reviewed The Other Naughty Piglet, a branch of Brixton’s Naughty Piglets inside Andrew Lloyd Webber’s new theatre in Victoria, The Other Place, where he found “a kind of modern British cooking with wallops of umami”. “Sometimes the cleverness is textural. A pile of white crab meat sits atop a heap of […]

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⦿ Jay Rayner of The Observer hit the jackpot with a visit to Riley’s Fish Shack, “two full side-access shipping containers fitted out steampunk-style” overlooking St Edward’s Bay in Tynemouth, near Newcastle, which he declared “the eating experience of the year”. “It is the pristine quality of fish cookery you always hope to find in one of those fancy, raised […]

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⦿ Fay Maschler of the Evening Standard reviewed Elystan Street 4/5, Phil Howard’s new restaurant in Chelsea, where she ate some “sublime” dishes but gasped at the prices and missed having a tablecloth. “Smoked mackerel velouté with Porthilly oysters — from the River Camel estuary — with leek hearts and eel toast is a secular […]

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The Raby Hunt near Darlington was the biggest winner in yesterday’s (snooze-worthy) 2017 UK and Ireland Michelin Guide announcements, with chef James Close bagging his second star. Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck in Bray returned to three-star status, having been omitted from last year’s guide during its residency in Melbourne. There were no other multi-star promotions this […]

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⦿ September 27 will see the opening of Phil Howard’s new venture, Elystan Street, in the backstreets of Chelsea. The site will be remembered by some as Tom Aikens – another chef who had a Michelin 2-star pedigree and struck out on his own in this quiet backwater, a short stroll from The Conran Shop […]

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Japanese-born, French-trained chef Yu Sugimoto has taken over the kitchen at Mayfair dining temple The Square following its sale by founding chef Phil Howard earlier this year. Sugimoto spent nine years at Le Meurice in Paris, where he rose to head chef, after beginning his career at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. Restaurateur Marlon Abela, who […]

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Just can’t wait for the opening of Phil Howard’s new restaurant, Elystan Street in Chelsea, at the end of this month? Well, you can have a sneak pre-taste (and at a significantly lower price) next Saturday, September 17, at Barnes Food Fair. Howard founded Mayfair thoroughbred The Square and ran its “brilliantly focused” (Harden’s Survey) kitchen for […]

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Chef Phil Howard – perhaps best known for his 25 years at the helm of The Square, Mayfair – has announced that he and Rebecca Mascarenhas have paired up once again to launch a new restaurant. Elystan Street will open on Chelsea’s Elystan Street this September, previously the site of the stylish, but relatively short-lived Tom Aikens […]

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Today (26 August) saw the unveiling of the Waitrose Good Food Guide’s top 50 UK restaurants with Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume in Cartmel taking pole position for the second year. So far, so good. We wouldn’t begrudge Mr Rogan the top spot, he was within a hair’s breadth of topping our survey last year and – without […]

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