Grafton House SW4
REVIEWS, February 10, 2006
Overall Value
out of 5
  • Food
  • Service
  • Ambience
Grafton House, 13-19 Old Town, London, SW4 0JT

Is picking a good restaurant just a matter of personal taste? If so, our job would be pretty pointless, so it is lucky that – after 15 years’ market research – we’ve pretty conclusively found that most people agree about most restaurants most of the time. There is a ‘Right Answer’.

There are however a few places – mercifully small in number – where the general rule just won’t work. All you can reasonably say is that they take different people different ways.

Our visit left the impression that this large Clapham newcomer might be just such a place. Objectively speaking, everything was rather good. Service was friendly and efficient, the food was simple but enjoyable, prices didn’t break the bank, and – from our comfy corner banquette – we had a pleasant view of the restaurant and its open kitchen.

Why, then, would we probably not go back? Was it the cold impression given by the cavernous bar at the front? That would be harsh, as we visited early in the week, and this is presumably a weekend destination. Was it that we fell outside the 25-35 demographic at which the place is aimed? Possibly, but – like most reviewers – it’s become second nature to us to try to make the best of all sorts of eatery.

So it was that we found ourselves – which is rare – cruising ‘feedback’ websites to see what the punters think. And, yes, – their conflicting accounts tend to support the conclusion that this is one of those chalk ‘n’ cheese places, where there’s just no right answer. So, if you want a firmer verdict, there’s just no substitute for going to check it out for yourself’

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