How quickly Pimlico and Westminster – until recently, an almost totally overlooked zone of central London – is changing. This is never more apparent than on the ten-minute stroll from Victoria station to the newcomer we review today, during which time you are never very far from a building site.

On arrival, you find an establishment that you might mistakenly assume is a longstanding feature of the neighbourhood, as its whole style seems so ’80s. Perhaps its three backers have been reading the Sunday supplements and know that the era of Sloane Rangers and New Romantics is set for a comeback. Or maybe they just don’t know any better. The website says that the trio collectively have 65 years’ experience of the local dining scene – a claim which should send shudders through anyone who is at all familiar with it. The menu doesn’t look too encouraging either. Too long, too unseasonal and presented in one of those nasty plastic binders.

Put doubt aside, though: this turns out to be a thoroughly good local (and very handy for anyone with business in or around Victoria Street). There’s nothing startling about the food, but a dinner for two was satisfying, and the tiramisù was – in an old-fashioned, very creamy, way – exemplary.

Service is very good too, but – just as important – this is the sort of place where you feel that how much you spend is broadly up to you. You could easily spend £80 for two, but the staff will still be equally charming if, for say a pasta-based meal, you spend little more than half that. And – ’80s style or no – central London could do with a lot more places like that.

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