Voted best restaurant in the Wharf’, says the website of this big and busy Canary Wharf oriental (which has recently emerged from a major refurbishment). Well, they’re certainly getting bums on seats: the large, ground floor pan-Asian brasserie – a good mates’ get-together kind of place – has a nice buzz to it. Today, though, we’re set on grander things, and ascend the rather theatrical staircase to the large fine dining room, which has been given a hint of modish bordello-style.

Up here, they’ve sensibly decided to concentrate on one cuisine: Thai. It is priced at a level to raise expectations, though – these are, after all, dishes that can be done brilliantly, very cheaply.

We order spring rolls (admittedly a corny choice, but all the more reason to check it out). They come generous and crispy, and full of vegetables. A good start. Thereafter, we can never quite decide if the glass is half-full or half-empty. The initial impression of another classic, Tom Ka Gai (coconut chicken soup), for example, is favourable, but further investigation reveals a rather fundamental omission: the chicken seems to have absolutely no taste. Choosing a less usual sort of dish, crispy monkfish, we find it sort-of-succeeds. Once again, however, a fundamental part of the advertised formula seems to be missing: the monkfish was there all right, but crispy it was not.

So, would the ‘best restaurant in the Wharf’ impress anyone used to dining out in London, say? They might think it was a congenial sort of place a less formal sort of business meeting, and jolly useful if there wasn’t much else about. But a culinary destination in its own right? Probably not.

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