The area round Aldgate – gateway to the exotic East End – seems to be opening up as a new frontier for classy City lunching. It was the Missouri Grill (opposite the tube) that showed it could be done. Later this autumn is to see the opening of an offshoot of Covent’s Garden’s Christopher’s. And then there’s this just-opened Italian.
The entrance – there is a small bar at street level – gives no hint of any real ambition. Stairs lead down to the more promising basement restaurant, decked out in a clean modern style that’s on the right side (just) of the divide between being elegantly understated and, well, bland.
Service keeps up this agreeable but slightly blank impression. Nothing to complain about, but little to embrace. And the food? Fortunately, it makes a bit more of an impression. It’s not your Identikit modern Italian and the dishes are light, clean-tasting, and accomplished, especially the fish. That said, puddings, in particular, promised more than they delivered.
Once you know that both chef (Benjamin Tish) and manager (Richard Martinez) have had considerable stints at Al Duca everything becomes clear. This St James’s Italian has long been notable for providing a thoroughly competent, but resolutely ‘middle-of-the-road’ contemporary Italian package. The premises here are a bit more spacious, but spiritually it’s pretty much a dead ringer.
One essential part of the Al Duca ‘package’ that’s been replicated here is notably fair pricing (which helps overcome any perceived lack of fireworks). Quality food at good-value prices is a novel concept for those launching City restaurants of any culinary ambition. Perhaps it might even catch on?
