Wallingford, French Restaurant Guide

One of the UK’s first wave of modern gastropubs (est. 1989, pipping the Eagle in Farringdon by a couple of years), this Chilterns village boozer serves an “imaginative menu which changes daily” in a “great atmosphere”. But there’s more to it: founder Paul Clerehugh is a former guitarist with 1970s glamrockers The Sweet, and organises “great music nights” in the pub’s heated marquee, attracting an eclectic line-up of performers (George Harrison in the early years; last year, Nigel Kennedy, the Bay City Rollers and Geno Washington).

It’s the end of a storied era at this famous Oxfordshire manor house – a permanent fixture on the annual Harden’s 100 list of the UK’s best restaurants – which is to close for 18 months: from January 2026 until summer 2027. Its original founder, 75-year-old Raymond Blanc, is stepping back from his role as chef-patron to become a “lifetime ambassador” and there will be a “visionary redevelopment” by owners Belmond (part of French-owned luxury goods conglomerate LVMH) who acquired it in 2014. Opened 41 years ago, it has long been a leader of the British gastronomic scene, a training kitchen for generations of young chefs and a pioneer of sustainable cuisine. It’s a lifetime work that helped Raymond earn his Légion d’honneur in 2013 in recognition by La Patrie of his services to culinary excellence. As to the future: according to the press release: “The redevelopment will allow Le Manoir to evolve for the future, to meet the needs of the modern guest while staying true to its soul and values. It is not simply a renovation, but a reinvestment into sustainability, in creativity, and in the spirit of excellence that has defined us”.

“A charming venue in a picture-postcard village location” – this “excellent” pub-with-rooms has a “lovely bright restaurant serving superb food” with influences from around the world, and a “good range of private dining options”. Charles I is said to have dined here during the English Civil War.

This “Reading institution” occupying an 18th-century tollhouse in the town centre has “had a few ups and downs over the last 25 years, but this year is back on top form with a solid menu and excellent service”. Self-taught chef owner Paul Clerehugh, a former rock guitarist with Sweet, also runs the Crooked Billet music pub in Stoke Row (see also).

Reams of praise for this “always reliable bistro” near the centre, which is a real local “favourite and always packed”. By all accounts it “produces classic French dishes” at “very reasonable prices too” – not culinary art but “amazing VFM!” (and for a big group meal, its wide menu with something for everyone makes it an excellent choice).

“A visit feels like an occasion”, say fans of this “superb local French restaurant” in Summertown from chef-patron Pascal Wiedermann (ex-Racine, Terroirs and Six Portland Place) and his wife Laura. “Service is very good” and the dishes “well-executed”, although some feel the menu is somewhat “limited” and “requires £££”.

“Ridiculous!”. “We’ve been to a lot of Michelin star restaurants, and we know this is a pub and not a tasting menu restaurant, but, sorry, only a limited choice of dishes for each course and very expensive for what they are at that” – typical feedback this year on Tom Kerridge’s famous Thames Valley boozer. Its fame was sealed in 2012 when it became the first pub in the world to be awarded two Michelin Stars, but after a sunny heyday and many years of celebratory reviews, its trajectory in recent times has been of steady decline and this year’s feedback was by far the worst yet. Over half of reporters consider the experience their most overpriced of the year, and – aside from the ludicrous prices – the food itself also takes flak for being “uninspiring” or “too salty”, with expressions like “inedible” and “made me angry” starting to feature in one or two accounts. It’s frankly hard not to conclude that only Tom’s TV celebrity stops the Tyre Men from pulling the gongs here. Perhaps he is aware, as change is afoot with a reallocation of the team – after our annual diners’ poll had concluded, in June 2025, Sarah Hayward was announced as the new head chef here, crowned Michelin Young Chef of the Year in 2023. Top Tip – during the week, there is a ‘Classics’ menu for £95 per person (not available at the weekends, hence higher formula-price shown).

“Wonderfully capable French cooking, excellent ingredients and delightful staff” make this village pub-turned-bistro “a real find for special occasions” (“we had a lovely summer lunch party for eight in the garden”) – and it’s “very close to Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, no less” (while considerably easier on the wallet). Hosts Antoine & Camille Chretien are “really friendly and knowledgeable”, and “don’t take short cuts” with their “beautifully presented” Gallic cuisine. Top Menu Tip – “the five-cheese soufflé is divine”.