Thornton Restaurant Guide

In an “unusual setting” on the banks of the River Wyre by a historic toll bridge (“right down by the water with a pleasant walk before the meal”), the Beaumes’ rambling riverside inn combines views of the Lake District and chic lodgings ranging from a penthouse suite to luxury cabins. “A quiet lack of fuss presides over the whole experience” while on the food front, it “continues to offer probably the best food on the Fylde (that sticky out bit of Lancashire between Preston and Lancaster)”. “The food varies between simple or classic dishes done very well and a few excursions into experimentation (which sometimes work, sometimes don’t), so – split the difference – and say it’s very good”. Top Tips – “bargain three-course lunch for £27 per person”; it’s “well worth popping into the on-site deli”, TOTI (‘Taste of the Inn’), where you can pick up “a really splendid choux bun”; “you’ll never go wrong with their superb French Onion Soup, followed by an oxtail suet pudding”.

“Craig Wilkinson continues to do what he does so well in his family-owned old pub, that lent its name to the hamlet and former railway station of Bay Horse” (on the West Coast Main Line). It’s been in his family for over two decades, and continues to provide “classically-inspired food” (e.g. Black pudding, Puy lentil cottage pie, Chocolate mousse) “that’s very good indeed”. “If you happen to visit on a warm, sunny day, dining al-fresco in the garden is a very pleasant experience”.

2023 Review: “Completely consistent… they still do the best ever Pizza Napoletana” – this huge Italian ‘Ristorante & Pizzeria’ just outside Preston was opened in 1985 and has grown over the years to house 300 guests in one sitting, of whom about a third are in a striking glazed extension, complete with al fresco terrace.

This striking Art Deco building was brought back to its former glory in the late 2000s after falling into disrepair and today its dining room is “one of the loveliest places to enjoy a romantic dinner over tables facing out to the sea”. While most attention goes to the exemplary afternoon tea (comprising “perfect sandwiches, delicious scones and cakes”), there was also praise this year for some other “delicious” cooking.

2024 Review: “Went here after reading Jay Rayner’s Nov 2022 review. Superb!” – this no-frills café near the Central Lancashire University campus (from Hong Kong natives Fai Tsang and her husband, Wai) is “very much a café rather than a restaurant but you can (need to) book”, thanks to brilliant Cantonese cooking that’s worth rolling up your sleeves for. Top Menu Tip – “The roast duck and siu yuk are delicious with the crisp skin contrasting the tender meat. Soy chicken is very flavourful and the brisket tender, tasty and well spiced”.

2024 Review: This crowd-pleasing pub once served as a hospital, but since its takeover and refurb’ by the Brunning & Price group some years back, it’s now a proper country gastroboozer (also with a handful of rooms); on the menu – high-quality British dishes abetted by some more exotic influences from around the world.

“Really great, inventive food prepared to exacting standards by a talented chef” makes this two-year-old from a strong team headed by Oli Martin (ex-Northcote and Hipping Hall) a “real gem”, serving “ambitious tasting menus (for £79 per person at dinner, no à la carte) with strong presentation and good blends of flavours that are precise but not excessive”. (Giles Coren of The Times also heaped praise on “supremely gifted and thoughtful chefs (and) proper northern hospitality” in his November 2024 review).

In its current format since 1984 (and originally built in, er, 1688), this pub and restaurant won renewed interest and good all-round feedback in our annual diners’ poll, in part down to a favourable December 2023 visit from The Observer’s Jay Rayner: he praised a listed building that’s “deliciously seasoned with history” and “seriously impressive”, proper “cheek-slapping, belly-pleasing” food – notwithstanding being massively let down by its décor and “eye-achingly awful” website.