Peckham, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

A huge hit when it opened eight years ago, bringing Paris-style ‘bistronomy’ to a sidestreet behind Peckham Rye Station, this lively venue is still solidly rated even if it no longer generates the feedback of the early years. Founders Mark Gurney & Matt Bushnell have closed Larry’s, their NYC-inspired diner next door, and replaced it with Bar Levan, a natural wine bar serving small plates provided by the main kitchen.

Bright, modern haunt – complete with big floor-to-ceiling windows and an outside terrace – that’s long anchored Peckham’s emergence as a food scene. Billing itself as ‘Your friendly neighbourhood wine bar’, the vino is the highpoint here, but the grub’s a cut-above and good value.