London Mortlake Restaurant Guide

“The view over the Thames makes it worth the voyage” to this outpost of TV-Rick’s empire (in reality, run by his ex-wife and sons) near Barnes Bridge – but only “if you’re lucky enough to be seated by the windows” – “otherwise it never seems quite to live up to the reputation of a famous name”. The food can be “good”, but “of course it is not cheap”, and too often it is “disappointingly ordinary” – “you’re paying for the name and location, not the food”. More than 50 years after opening his first restaurant in Padstow, the TV chef’s family is reportedly planning to open a venue in central London: no news on the location as of summer 2025.

Limited but highly positive feedback again on this neighbourhood outpost in East Sheen, where chef Leonard Kola presides over an eclectic menu that mixes steaks and burgers with blackened miso cod and seafood curry.

“An original greasy spoon on steroids” – this yearling in East Sheen is “the perfect venue for breakfast when you have the builders in your kitchen”, or whenever you just fancy a “fab English breakfast” featuring “out-of-this-world bacon”. Founder James Packman was inspired to create his signature ‘bacon & egg butty’ while working for French chef Bruno Loubet, and spent 10 years selling them from an old ambulance at street markets before opening his first bricks-and-mortar caff in his home suburb.

Really top-class Indian cooking hits the spot at this offshoot of suburban superstar Dastaan (see also), on a busy stretch of road where the South Circular passes through East Sheen. Any suspicions that they “may be resting on their laurels” were allayed by an uptick in the ratings this year. Top Menu Tip – “perfect lamb chops”.