Birley, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: ‘Deliciously Derbyshire’ is the motto at this Peak District gastropub – feedback is too limited for a rating, but such as we have gives the thumbs-up to high-quality pub grub, which includes a wide variety of sourdough pizzas.

A substantial, grade II listed Edwardian manor house, clad in ivy, this well-established destination is the epitome of a cosy country retreat, and sits in the Peak District near Baslow. Max & Susan Fischer have owned it since 1988 – running it now with the aid of son Neil – and despite an effort to sell in 2023, Max remains executive head chef, with an emphasis in recent times of sourcing from the property’s garden. The entry level option at dinner is a three-course meal for £80 per person, with other options ranging up to ten courses for £135 per person. One former fan relayed a more downbeat report this year finding their experience “disappointing” and “overpriced”, but most feedback is very upbeat, and of “beautifully prepared food, attentive staff and warm, gracious surroundings”.

“A traditional-looking pub serving non-traditional food” – this Peak District inn with rooms continues to inspire nothing but positive feedback for its ambitious modern cuisine. “We had the signature tasting menu and it was superb!” – six courses are £89 per person: “ingredients are top-quality, all perfectly cooked, set in imaginative dishes and beautifully presented. Head chef, Mark Aisthorpe, was present in the kitchen and made the Yorkshire rhubarb dish by the table using liquid nitrogen. It was pure theatre and lots of fun!”. (There is also a range of cheaper menu options).

“A real gem near Chatsworth” – the stately pile of the Devonshire family (who also own this establishment), which sits but a half-hour walk away – this “charming” and expensively made-over boutique hotel is lined with works by art stars like Elizabeth Peyton, Jeremy Deller and Phyllida Barlow, sourced from the clan’s own collection. Originally The Peacock Inn, it was apparently won by the 6th Duke of Devonshire in the 1830s, and was given its modern makeover supervised by Laura, the current duchess-in-waiting. Chef Adam Harper (ex-of the famed Fischer’s, nearby) champions sustainable produce from the estate and local cuisine in the more casual, brunch-friendly ‘Garden Room’, and also in this — the old-fashioned, eau de nil-coloured, formal restaurant, which makes a “go-to place for a special meal”, particularly if you opt for the “fabulous tasting menu” (which also comes at a “very reasonable price”). The slap-up afternoon tea is also worthy of attention.