Backford Restaurant Guide

“Been several times and it is just the perfect neighbourhood bistro…” – no-one would seek the roots of a famous chain in Hoole (a gentrified but easily-missed inner suburb near Chester’s train station), but Gary Usher’s well-known Elite Bistros group has grown from these modest beginnings: a small backstreet operation founded in 2011. What is it that makes this “local brasserie style restaurant” a cut above? It’s the “consistently good food, wine and engaging and knowledgeable service”. “The ambience might depend on the clientele for that evening, as it’s fairly small – upstairs was very quiet on our visit, but that made it easy to have a conversation with our friends without competing noise”.

The “great Spanish food” at Joe & Ben Wright’s Chester-based tapas operation has proved a winner over the past dozen years, replacing their popular bistro Joseph Benjamin and spawning offshoots in Altrincham and Salford, while in late 2024 they took over the former Greens site in West Didsbury. The no-reservations policy means “you risk waiting for ages – but at least they have a bar upstairs to wait in now!”.

Another characterful pub in the Brunning & Price chain (a red-brick former warehouse with plenty of reclaimed décor including a bar made of old mahogany doors) in an appealing canal-side location between the train station and city centre. It’s a “noisy” and sociable sort of spot and the food is of “good dependable quality”.

“After a promising return, the food has dropped off quite dramatically”, according to a number of reports at this long-running culinary icon: a plush, if windowless chamber at the heart of a grand hotel, owned by the Duke of Westminster and next to the city’s emblematic Eastgate Clock. For many years under Simon Radley (here from 1998-2021), it was one of the then-few destinations in the North West to hold a Michelin star. More than one reporter this year opined that “having lost its star on Simon’s departure, it needs to improve considerably to justify the high prices”. One bright spark though – in the adjoining lounges there’s a “reliable afternoon tea: recommend the Gentleman’s version, which includes excellent fish sliders”.

“In the five-star hotel in the centre of town, right by the city walls”, this attractive brasserie sits right on the pavement of Chester’s pedestrianised main drag and a visit injects a good amount of glam mid-shopping spree. On the downside, service can sometimes be “lacking” and it’s not a price-competitive option…

Feedback is more limited than we would like, but is enthusiastic over this grey-hued boutique hotel dining room, run from afar by game expert Mike Robinson. Chef Dan Regan oversees the preparation of a menu that majors in 40-60 day, dry-aged beef steaks from a selection of sirloin or ribeye cuts.

2022 Review: USDA steaks and other meaty treats – alongside a Manhattan-esque vibe – have won local renown for this swish steakhouse in the city centre. Closed for much of the pandemic, in October 2021 the venue finally announced its return via Instagram and its website: “You may have noticed some building work taking place over the last couple of months…we are beyond excited and thrilled to finally announce that we will be back in the New Year… We have some exciting plans to transform our iconic home in the Olde Custom House Building… Our team of chefs and bartenders are already hard at work behind the scenes developing an exciting new food and drink menu… don’t worry, your old favourites will still feature!”.

2021 Review: “With stunning views over Chester Racecourse” (“book early to be sure of a window table”), this well-established venue marries “fine wines and food” and, so long as you “don’t go on race days”, there are “usually quiet areas for those important business meetings”.

This Georgian pub near the city’s picturesque racecourse, from the Brunning & Price stable, is popular for its “wonderful location and comforting decor”. Reports on the food are more muted, although “if you like fish ’n’ chips you’ll love it – they offer more combinations of batter/fish/sides than most places”. It was built by prominent Chester architect Thomas Harrison as his own home – hence the unusual name.

“Recently moved [in August 2023] from a backstreet passage in Chester to a prestigious new location on Pepper Street and with considerably increased covers and ambience”: this “very smart” dining room is winning ever-greater esteem for its accomplished modern British cooking (it provided one Shropshire-based reporter with their best meal of the year) all served by “knowledgeable staff, which they have retained from the old venue”. There’s an à la carte menu of some ambition and for the full blow-out a tasting menu option with eight courses for £80 per person. Top Tip – at lunch there’s a cheaper set, with two courses for £30 per head. See also ‘Twenty Eight’.

2021 Review: “A long-term favourite which has been going for decades” – in recent times now decamped to La Tasca's old digs from its original home in The Rows – it boasts “plush and trendy” décor; “the moules marinières are wonderful and there are nights dedicated to surf and turf or lobster”.

2023 Review: Chef Harry Guy (ex-Savoy Grill and Mallory Court Hotel) will open his debut restaurant in Wildes Group’s new Chester boutique hotel in 2023 (originally scheduled for mid 2022), by ‘The Cross’ at the ancient heart of this picturesque town. The venue itself sounds quite a ‘do’: with 18 bedrooms, rooftop pool, amphitheatre sauna and terrace with views overlooking the city. An “invitingly dark” dining room is promised, and setting its sights on becoming “one of the finest restaurants in the country”.

2023 Review: Situated on the ancient, picturesque top tier of ‘The Rows’ on Watergate Street, this August 2021 yearling from Adem & Holly Yilmaz (their first venture) is proving an excellent addition to the city. The Turkish cooking is “simple but there’s a great choice of really good dishes” and the welcome is “warm and friendly”.

Launched next door to its sister restaurant – Chef’s Table on Pepper Street – this “interesting and welcoming” August 2023 arrival serves ‘British tapas from the field’, presided over by ex-Sticky Walnut head chef Jay Tanner, with much of the produce grown on the team’s pesticide-free farm, Field28. If anything, the spin-off is working even better than at the mothership, winning praise as “a really high-quality small-plates venue that’s as good as it gets” with “magnificent cooking from superb, creative menus” – from Sunday brunch through dinner – and “the friendliest service”. (Times critic Giles Coren made the pilgrimage and also declared himself a big fan in his April 2024 review: “Five of the sharing plates at this price could have fed two people easily with a great range of flavours. Astounding value. Just astounding”.)