Watermillock, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Behind a rather nondescript exterior of the local red sandstone”, this converted old bank near the town’s market square “was once the sister restaurant of the remarkable Mrs Millers at Culgaith, which disappeared with the closure of the garden centre which housed it” a few years ago. “It continues where Mrs Millers left off, with an attractive and attractively priced short menu”: “very comforting, hearty dishes, but also delicious” and “beautifully presented”. “We live in Darlington but regularly drive over to Four and Twenty. The food is amazing value! The staff go above and beyond to make us feel welcome and comfortable” (“jugs of iced tap water come unbidden to the table!”).

“Another ex-boozer I remember from adolescence, with patterned carpets and glowering locals now replaced by worshippers of the Michelin divinity” – and by all accounts Ben Queen-Fryer’s gentrified rural gastroboozer (est. 2017) “merits the star” it has held since 2022. “The food never disappoints with quality, quantity and interest” – all the more impressive given that this is a one-man band.

2023 Review: “Well-cooked food”, most notably the Grasmere Herdwick lamb that appears in various guises – the signature shepherds’ pie, a slider in a brioche bun, a Greek-style roast shoulder – is par for the course at this family-run restaurant-with-rooms. Breakfast is a particular hit, too.

Food and fell-running trips combine at the multi-tasking adventure brand’s bistro, whose eclectic dishes race all over the place and are “better than pub fare” (though the venue does enjoy a “quality pub ambience”) plus “good value” to boot. Their growing local empire includes Airstream-set burrito joint the Fellshack, cocktail and burger bar The Round, set on hallowed fell-running territory in Keswick’s Market Square, and (most recently) small hotel The Hazeldene, located on The Heads, a few minutes’ walk from the bistro.

“Delicious food, beautifully presented in a relaxed environment”, has won plenty of admirers for this spin-off from the nearby Old Stamp House, where head chef Dan Hopkins’s “modern, accurate cooking” makes excellent use of prime Lakeland ingredients, including Herdwick lamb. It’s “good value”, too – especially for the “brilliant set lunch”. ‘Kysty’ apparently means fussy in the Cumbrian dialect.

Ryan Blackburn and general manager brother Craig’s decade-old venture – the poet Wordsworth’s office when he was the local stamp distributor – is a truly “first-class” affair; the “cellar-type interior gives a cosy atmosphere”, while the “unique” tasting menu of locally sourced food (acclaimed by the tyre men since 2019) is abetted by staff who take “evident pleasure” in their work. Is it cheap? Well, “a full-blown evening tasting menu at £95 per person seems really quite reasonable” to one reporter… “anyway, it raised the bar for cooking in Cumbria for me”.

On the lower slopes of Skiddaw, England’s third highest mountain, a luxury mid-Victorian Lakes hotel that “never fails to impress”. The restaurant has been relocated over the years to amplify the “wonderful views”, and it continues to please with its “good variety of dishes” (from Sunday lunch to salads and Cumbrian rarebit) that are also “exceptional value for money”.

2023 Review: Set in 27 acres, this country house hotel is one of the better-known luxury destinations in the Lakes and boasts a dining room whose floor-to-ceiling windows provide magnificent views of Windermere and the surrounding peaks, where chef Robby Jenks presides over the kitchen. It inspired very upbeat (but relatively little) feedback again this year, with nominations as an ideal romantic choice or for its impressive afternoon teas. For a full meal in the dining room, lunch is a four-course affair for £60 per person, and in the evening the sole option is a seven-course tasting menu at £115 per person.

2022 Review: Ratings weakened this year at this luxurious Lakeland hotel, whose wood-panelled, traditional dining room provides a splendid vantage-point for gazing over Lake Windermere. One reporter felt that the “competent, but potentially excellent, cooking was not value for money, due to willing but overstretched service” – perhaps signposting that the blip was due to the tribulations of the times?

“Capitalising on the stunning views down from Whinlatter Pass”, this converted coaching inn above Keswick (in the Whinlatter Forest) is the epitome of a beautifully located Lakeland property; and fans say it’s “a great place to stay and go walking, then come back for amazing meals”. Chef Sam Miller has lots of top Scandi names on his CV (including Noma and Faviken) and his eight-course tasting menu for £110 per person achieves some high ratings in our annual diners’ poll. Not everyone is wowed – a couple of reporters found it “disappointing given its reputation”, or with dishes that had “too much pickling and cooking techniques that were not to my taste”. But for the majority, it’s ‘mission accomplished’ – “we had high expectations and the food was excellent and service efficient and friendly”.

Also home to the Barngates Brewery – whose brews are on tap – this rural pub is a popular destination on the Lakeland tourist trail. It didn’t generate much attention in our annual diners’ poll this year, but such as we received was ‘all good‘ (although some feedback suggested “mains aren’t as good as the starters and puds”).

2022 Review: This old-school market-town hotel is a cosseting sort of spot, whether you opt to dine in the “comforting bar area” or the silver-and-ruby-red restaurant, garlanded with two AA rosettes for its “consistently high standard” of “well-presented” food.