North Yorkshire, French Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: “A great place for a civilised lunch” – so long as you don’t expect culinary fireworks. This impressive William & Mary country house on the outskirts of York is owned by the National Trust (and was once the residence of traveller and writer Lady Mary Wortley Montague, who introduced the practice of smallpox inoculation to Britain after witnessing it in Turkey).

Adam Frontal and Aussie chef Brayden Davies nowadays own and run this famous Northern establishment, which is located in one of the town’s oldest buildings, has been a restaurant since 1962 and which has cultivated a reputation over the decades as the ‘Gavroche of the North’, having been the launchpad, back in the day, for the stellar rise of Marco Pierre White. The main five-course menu is £115 per person and offers quite a mashup of tastes and culinary inspirations (a recent version includes Tartare of Westholme Wagyu Bavette and Tortellini of English Corn, while revolving around a relatively conventional Yorkshire wood pigeon dish). Some positive feedback this year, but too limited for a full rating: reports please!

Handy for Leeds Playhouse, a “lovely French restaurant that‘s been there forever and understandably” – it provides much of what you’d want from a Gallic bistro recreated in a northern town: relaxed, affordable (it has long been of note for its early-bird deals), unpretentious, and with cosy décor that seems even cosier by the light of flickering candles.

A lot of business has been done over “lovely food, very well served” at this Leeds institution – a classic French restaurant that’s “been going forever” (well, since 1991 – “I don’t think the menu has changed but it’s really nice food for a business lunch or dinner”). Founded by restaurateur Robert Chamberlain and executive chef Andrew Carter, who still run the show, it occupies a basement in the city’s financial district. Top Tip – the heavyweight wine list runs to 70 pages.

James Close shut the Raby Hunt to become culinary director of this five-star property. Completion of a new 584 square metre pavilion with 36 covers is anticipated in the second half of 2026, but while you are waiting, you can sample his cuisine at various pop-ups around the resort, as well as at Café Terra. Reports on the temporary operation say it can seem “expensive in what is a temporary stop-gap location” with food that’s “very good, but not to Raby Hunt levels and difficult to justify at these prices and in this setting (but I expect the new purpose-built restaurant will be fantastic and reach the culinary hit lists)”.