London Clapham Restaurant Guide

“Since getting a (long-overdue) Michelin star, the team have upped their game” yet further, at Adam Byatt’s ever-more-outstanding Clapham trailblazer – “a very slick operation”, with an attractive position near Clapham Common. “In many respects it rivals Chez Bruce with the added advantages of more table space and less lead time for a table!” “Exemplary cuisine combines the familiar with interesting novelties without being outlandish or showing off”. “You are made to feel very welcome” by the “unusually well-informed staff” and the setting is “delightfully calm and relaxing”. See also Trinity Upstairs.

“Upstairs should be cloned for every city in the world” according to fans of Adam Byatt’s more relaxed alternative to the main dining space below – “an informal venue” (arguably “more vibey than downstairs”) with “an open kitchen, plus about 30 covers on high stools and narrow tables”; and looked after by “hard-working staff”. “Adventurous, regularly changing menus” (often featuring guest chefs) use a small plates format, and results are “truly exciting”.

Irish chef Robin Gill’s “really excellent and clever (but not too clever!) food” has carved a major reputation for his “vibrant” small-plates venture by Clapham Common, where the “combination of culinary skill and boundary-pushing ideas make it really special”.

“A real gem” – “extraordinary” – this Clapham fixture has for many, many years produced some of “the best Japanese you can get, at a really reasonable price”: in fact, locals feel “to be honest, it’s far better than the very expensive well-known Japanese restaurants in Central London”. It also mixes up “some of the most innovative cocktails in town”. The catch: “it’s always packed so the service lets it down... but that means nothing when you taste the food”. “Pity the Fitzrovia branch closed” – but do try Yama Momo in East Dulwich.

An “excellent new Italian, with pasta to die for” – Irish chef Robin Gill’s year-old relaunch of his popular The Manor, around the corner from his Clapham HQ The Dairy, takes culinary inspiration from the Amalfi coast. Reports are generally outstanding, and credit it with being a “worthy successor” on the site and “a valuable addition to the locality”. There’s a strong undercurrent, though, from those who were “left feeling rather underwhelmed” – they say it’s OK but “not as good as it thinks it is”. Top Tip – “go à la carte, the bigger portions are more suited to the cuisine than grazing on the tasting menu”.

Adam Byatt’s “nice local” in Abbeville Road doesn’t aim for the culinary fireworks of its stablemate Trinity, but generally delivers enjoyable modern bistro cuisine in a “relaxed” setting. There are a few reporters this year, however, who are “hoping for a return to form” saying that of late it “didn’t deliver” as hoped – perhaps a blip. Top Tip: “kids-eat-free Sunday Supper Club”.