British, Modern Restaurants in Kingsteignton
1. Lympstone Manor
British, Modern restaurant in Exmouth
Courtlands Lane - EX8
“The entire experience is extremely memorable” at Michael Caines’s “beautiful country-house hotel” which has “a lovely setting overlooking the River Exe”. (“Our meal began with Champagne and canapes in a wonderfully styled, tranquil lounge with perfect views out over the estuary and across the Lympstone vineyard. The sun was setting across the estuary and the voile floor-length curtains at the open French windows were billowing gently”). “The whole package has continually improved since opening in 2017”, according to one regular, and it’s “a classy experience that’s hard to beat”. “The cooking is of the highest quality, championing everything in the region, so it’s best to ignore your inner accountant and just ride the wave of the Estuary tasting menu”: “a masterclass in how to use top ingredients and complement them with exceptionally well-balanced sauces”. “Predictably it has a huge price tag” (£180 per person for the à la carte or £240 per person for the tasting menu) but no-one this year begrudged paying it. It’s one of the top-20 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll and satisfaction levels are impressive (“one of the best meals I’ve ever had”) so we share the puzzlement of some reporters at why it’s not more accoladed in some obvious quarters: “I‘m always surprised that the Michelin inspectors only award this establishment a single star”; “the food is easily two star, so no idea why Lympstone only has one”. Perhaps if Michael were French it would help…
3. Elephant Restaurant & Brasserie
British, Modern restaurant in Torquay
3-4 Beacon Ter, Harbourside - TQ1
“This reliably consistent beacon of Michelin star excellence handily placed by the yacht club and marina is an absolute stalwart”, having held the accolade since 2006. “Both the kitchen and front of house continue to deliver”, with much of the produce for the restaurant grown on owner Simon Hulstone’s 100-acre Brixham farm. Occupying an elegant Georgian townhouse, it’s relatively informal by the standards of foodie temples, and there’s a sensibly priced à la carte alongside the fancier tasting options.
4. The Bull Inn
British, Modern restaurant in Totnes
Rotherfold Square, Little Totnes - TQ9
“Very relaxed but with always interesting food” – this organic and ethical pub-with-rooms won the Sustainable Restaurant Association’s coveted Sustainability Award last year – recognition of the efforts made by the team led by founder Geetie Singh-Watson, a self-styled ethical publican who sold her flat in London to rescue what had been a run-down local boozer. The locally sourced food does not just tick the sustainability box: “the local ingredients are varied and excellent, in intriguing combinations. eg. beetroot and sheep’s curd starter is simple, yet tasty and on a recent visit a cod’s head was on the menu”.
5. The Salutation Inn
British, Modern restaurant in Topsham
68 Fore Street - EX3
“Good-quality food at reasonable prices”, including “brilliant local seafood”, is the attraction at this restored Georgian inn from locally born chef-patron Tom Williams-Hawkes (ex-Gordon Ramsay and Gidleigh Park) and his wife Amelia. In summer 2024 they rejigged the venue to operate as a café by day and a restaurant by night, with a new bar area.
6. Rendezvous Wine Bar
British, Modern restaurant in Exeter
38-40 Southernhay East - EX1
“There‘s a dearth of good restaurants in Exeter, so Rendezvous stands out” – a “lovely little place tucked away downstairs” and fusing a “charming” and “calm” restaurant and wine bar. “High-quality locally sourced ingredients are cooked carefully and imaginatively” and abetted by an “interesting wine list with a good selection by the glass”.
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