Harefield Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “TerraVina’s resurrection” – “in its new guise as a boutique B&B and café” – “has become a real favourite in the beautiful New Forest”. Founder Gerard Basset, the famed wine expert behind the original Hotel du Vin, died in January 2019 after a two-year fight against cancer, and his widow Nina has kept the business going. There are “no evening meals now, but breakfasts and lunches are splendid” and “in summer it’s lovely to sit in the garden”.

2021 Review: “A classical set-up with comfy armchairs and a roaring fire, tea served with sandwiches, scones, jam, cream and cakes – this picturesque country house hotel takes us plebs all back to a bygone age” and is very highly recommended for afternoon tea. Feedback on more ambitious fare in its plush dining room was a little more up-and-down last year and relatively limited, coinciding with the departure of highly rated exec chef Andrew Birch after only two years. His replacement, Phil Yeomans, returns after leaving as head chef in 2014.

“Fab French food in the middle of nowhere” – on the edge of the New Forest – has won a devoted fan club for Claude Laage’s establishment, now 30 years old and an “all-time favourite restaurant” to many for its “wonderful Gallic experience” and “superb wine list”. You can also eat inexpensively here, from its ‘Le Frog bistro’ menu – same space and servers but much less fancy Gallic fare.

“Part of the Fuller’s group but a cut above the city’s other pubs”, this famous boozer with rooms (betwixt Cathedral and college) is a “wonderfully atmospheric” spot that’s “the spiritual heir to Orwell’s ‘Moon Under Water’, or ideal public house”. For non-literary types that means “a varied clientele, with some eccentrics”, “a series of cosy and pleasantly cluttered rooms… convivial rather than noisy; no music or TV; and staff who are amiable and helpful”. The food, helmed by 2022 Roux Scholarship semi-finalist Luke Emmess, was consistently well-rated this year.

2021 Review: “The garden’s a joy in summer” at the original HdV, founded 25 years ago in a gorgeous Georgian house – but there’s a persistent feeling that it fails to live up to its attractive setting or extensive cellar, with diners too often “disappointed” by their bistro fare. The chain, which now numbers 19 boutique hotels, has been sold twice in the last 10 years.

“Your standard pub this is definitely not” – in fact it’s “quite likely one of the best places to eat in the Winchester area” – a “quintessential Victorian village pub” updated six years ago with a “large, modern dining area” offering a “monthly, small and very well considered menu” along with “excellent service”.

2021 Review: “Rather nice brunches and lunches await at this deli-café, with half a dozen specials chalked on the board” plus a garden and fish ‘n’ chip Friday nights. Though it serves an “upmarket clientele in an upmarket village”, it’s still “good value, with charming young staff” to boot.

“Garth (maître d’) and his wife (Maranda, the chef) run a truly delightful restaurant”, say fans of this long-running French venture, which the duo took over a decade ago from Paris-born chef German Marquis, and recently shepherded from its former setting on the A30 to a handier high street location. By all accounts, Maranda’s cooking is “superb” (prompting “possibly the best meal” one reporter had this year) and service is “excellent” too.

The national brand’s handy High Street perch is “THE place to have breakfast or brunch” locally, attracting uniformly positive reports this year. “The food is on the pricey side, but you get what you pay for” and despite being “always busy”, it’s “still somehow always able to deliver”, with “excellent service” from the “polite and efficient” staff.

In a “beautiful setting on the Test” in prime fly-fishing territory, Lucy Townsend’s decade-old hotel inspires strong feedback as both a romantic destination and a top dining pub. The “British-style food with nods to the Orient” is uniformly well-rated and abetted by “confident and skilled” service (they’re equally “welcoming to dogs, with generous treats included”). “I very rarely, if ever, say this but I couldn’t fault it!” Top Tip – the courtyard is “absolutely perfect for quality outdoor eating”.

With its “superb range of dishes” plumbing lesser-known regions of Thailand, and also “combined with swift service”, this three-year-old operation strikes reporters as quite the find – and if you’re a vegan, they work miracles replacing the fishy sauces Thai classics are so often based around.

Miff Kayum’s top-performing and “authentic” Japanese offers “an amazing experience every time” (so much so that some fans “visit Winchester solely to visit”). The sushi and sashimi are invariably “excellent”, with the famed ‘Winchester Roll’ a world’s first, being wrapped in wasabi leaf rather than the usual seaweed. They now do an omakase (chef’s choice) menu on Thu-Sat evenings if you feel like pushing the boat out.

This 36-year veteran “continues to provide the best Indian food in Winchester”, with an “interesting and wide-ranging menu of well-cooked dishes”. There’s an “obliging staff”, although “the ambience is occasionally let down by noisy groups”.

This “quietly excellent” destination inhabits a 600-year-old building five minutes’ from the city centre, and has operated as a restaurant for over 75 years (the current owners took over in 2008). It is second only to Rick Stein locally in terms of the amount of feedback it generates thanks to offering a “very high standard in everything”: “the setting is classical yet relaxed; service is discreet and effective; and the cuisine elegant and well-prepared”. “I am delighted that such restaurants still exist – there are so few like this”. Top Menu Tip – “the lunch and early evening menu is exceptional value”.

“The Italian-style food is a treat to behold” at this out-of-town retreat from Anglo-Italian chef Angela Hartnett (of Murano in Mayfair) with chef Luke Holder, in a New Forest hotel that’s “a place to be seen in, for a special occasion”. “Full of character and brimming with fine furnishings”, it’s “a beautiful venue for a (pricey) treat”, although lapses drag the ratings down: more critical diners feel “it’s a very good restaurant, but it never seems to get everything completely right at the same time!” and service in particular can be “surprisingly varied”. Top Tip – “ask for a table in the more attractive main room when booking”.

“The setting is off the charts” at the New Forest original of Robin Hutson’s shabby-chic country house hotel group (which was sold to private equity in late 2022) – “a beautiful manor house with incredible gardens and a fascinating, walled kitchen garden”. “Finally made it here for my wife’s birthday this year: we’ll definitely be returning!”. The food (better rated this year) is generally considered “fine” or better, albeit “with the continuous expansion of the chain, the meals become a little more hotel-like – though we certainly enjoyed our visit”.

2022 Review: “Amazing food and friendly service” characterise this “impressive” restaurant on the edge of the New Forest, run for more than 20 years by chef Mike Womersley (ex-Lucknam Park) and his wife Jayne. “The ambience has been transformed by a refurbishment – a welcome surprise since our last visit”.