Churton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This unusually grand and “busy gastropub” near the gates of the Duke of Westminster’s Cheshire estate is “probably the best Brunning & Price”. “We’ve eaten here many times over the years, and while the food has had its ups and downs, recently it’s been of top quality” – “it’s best to avoid weekends though, as it can get very busy: the price of success!” Top Tip – lovely garden in summer.

Sixteenth-century inn ‘the Pant’ (as owners Brunning & Price fondly call it) occupies a substantial, “very comfortable” Victorian property a short drive outside Wrexham; and its conversion has created “a great pub: warm and bustling in the winter, loads of outside space in the summer” and offering a “reliably good beer selection” too. Given its high standards, the odd reporter this year did quibble with the food, but overall this “very busy” destination remains a “favourite year after year”.

“Bistro meets pub to create a really enjoyable experience” at Gary Usher’s year-old gastropub, which opened in early 2023. It’s off to a smooth start (“we ate on the fourth day of opening, and expected some minor teething troubles, but there were none!”) and seems to succeed in his original aim, which was ‘to serve great drinks, delicious unpretentious food by a team that love what they do’ (even despite a minor furore in the national press over the pricing of a £20 burger).