Chippenham, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Hidden in the Wye valley”, Chris and Kirsty Harrod’s “charming” restaurant with rooms is often hailed as “the Welsh version of Noma” – “lots of foraging and sustainability is in evidence and Chris will spend time talking you through ingredients and cooking methods”. Most diners “really love the ethos of using local seasonal produce to produce such delicious food” and “the absence of silly combinations to deliver a seriously well put-together menu, with reasonable wine pairings”. Its ratings slipped a fraction this year, as it struck the wrong note on the odd occasion. The tenor of most reports though? – “unique and certainly worth seeking out”. Top Tip – lovely terrace for a summer’s day.

This classy coaching inn not far from the English border is a real all-rounder: whether you want “great cocktails” in the bar, an “amazing” afternoon tea, or a prix-fixe meal, the “interesting and ever-changing menu” is “always cooked with skill”. There are two local siblings: the mostly vegetarian The Chapel, a five-minute walk away, and acclaimed restaurant The Walnut Tree, ten minutes away by car.

Josh & Hannah Byrne’s “remote country pub” punches way above its weight with a “small, exceptional menu that changes every day” of “innovative cuisine”, featuring “bold, delicious flavours” and “locally sourced ingredients, perfectly cooked”. Top Menu Tip – “the deep-fried oysters are a gem”… “even if you’re ambivalent about oysters!”

The success of its younger Bath sibling is helping to bring more attention to this bright, high-roofed space converted from three sheds and sitting in a courtyard in the town centre. Owners Danielle Phillips and Dan Saunders were previously front of house and head chef at The Walnut Tree and their “tapas-style” small plates are “unfailingly brilliant – food that smacks you in the face and service that makes you feel like you’re royalty”.