Llanddewi Skirrid, Llandewi Skirrid, NP7 8AW
Harden's survey result
Summary
“Get there before Shaun Hill retires!”, say fans of this famous Welsh pub-with-rooms (two miles outside Abergavenny), which was made famous by Franco Taruschio in the 1970s and where Shaun has been chef-patron since 2008. Turning 79 in 2026, he’s put in an amazing stint at the stoves, including his days as chef-patron at Ludlow’s now defunct Merchant House. His style of cooking has always been deceptively straightforward, and the menu is likewise, presented as an à la carte selection. However, most mains are far from cheap – at £40-£50 per dish – and although “exceptional” meals are reported, ratings (normally a model of consistency) ticked lower this year, with a couple of long-term fans noting “we’ve followed Shaun Hill for years, but were disappointed this time”. Others, though, say “while prices are getting very high, it’s still a good experience”.
Summary
“Top-quality produce is served straightforwardly” at this celebrated rural gastropub, which originally won fame in the 1970s (under the Taruschios) and was for decades seen as one of Wales’s few decent culinary destinations. Chef Shaun Hill has been at the stoves for over 15 years now and some reporters still see a visit as a “sentimental journey”, recalling his stint as chef-patron at Ludlow’s legendary Merchant House (long RIP). “A long-time favourite, results are still excellent” from an à la carte menu that mixes modish ingredients into classical dishes. Top Tip – “if you can eat outside on the terrace (small and intimate) you can enjoy beautiful views of the countryside and a most delightful kitchen garden”.
Summary
“We’ve been coming for twenty years, and it remains fantastic!” This famous rural gastropub won fame in the 1970s (founded by Ann & Franco Taruschio) and celebrated chef Shaun Hill has been in charge of the kitchen for the last 15 years now. “The cuisine is not super-innovative”: “classic cooking of a high standard” that’s “just very dependable and hugely enjoyable” – “excellent local ingredients prepared with flair” and served alongside “a modestly marked-up wine list carefully chosen by someone who cares”. “Service can be a bit random” and one or two long-term fans feel it’s “living somewhat on a strong regular clientele who value it dearly”. But it remains in the top 100 most commented on restaurants in our annual diners’ poll outside London – an impressive feat for a chef who’s hit his 76th year. “Please don’t let him retire!”
Summary
“Our favourite restaurant when in Wales” – this “treasure” of a gastropub was made famous in the 1970s (by Ann and Franco Taruschio) and under Shaun HIll (at the stoves since 2008) “maintains an enviable reputation” for “dizzyingly good food in the absolute middle of nowhere”. Regulars say it’s “like going to dine with an old friend in complete relaxation”, but with “top-flight” cuisine that’s also grounded and “making extensive use of excellent local produce” (“the best ever lamb…”, “unbelievable cheese soufflé…”, “great value lunch with pork rillettes with pickles and toast”). And it’s quite “reasonably priced” too. Aged 74, Shaun has been threatening to step back for years: “make sure you get there before he retires!”
For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at The Walnut Tree?
Owner's description
The food is an eclectic mix, based on Shaun Hill’s personal taste, paired with sound cooking techniques; rather than a particular country's cuisine. A unifying feature is the core of excellent ingredients.
Shaun Hill is one of Britain's most enduringly successful chefs. He began his career in 1966, working for Robert Carrier in his Islington restaurant. He went on to work in some of London's most prestigious addresses including The Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge with Brian Turner and Blakes in South Kensington.
He won a Michelin star for Gidleigh Park in Devon where he was a key player in the Modern British food movement of the late 80's that fused local, seasonal produce with global influences.
The Merchant House, his much missed 24 seat Michelin-starred restaurant in Ludlow was hailed as the 14th best in the world and turned the Shropshire market town into a gastronomic destination.
Shaun currently holds a Michelin star at The Walnut Tree where he was a regular customer when it was run by Franco Taruschio. The restaurant fell on hard times after Taruschio sold up in 2001, only recovering when Hill took the reins in 2008.
Along the way, he's forged a unique style with a string of timeless dishes including scallops with lentil and coriander sauce that are as distinctive and delicious now as the day he created them.
If you are looking for accommodation, there are two cottages, both next door to The Walnut Tree just a short walk through the garden. The cottages are called the Old Post Office Cottage and Ivy Cottage.
Prices
 Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £30.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £5.00 |
 Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 10.00% |
Restaurant details
Llanddewi Skirrid, Llandewi Skirrid, NP7 8AW
Opening hours
| Monday | CLOSED |
| Tuesday | 12 pm‑9 pm |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑9 pm |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑9 pm |
| Friday | 12 pm‑9 pm |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑9 pm |
| Sunday | CLOSED |
