The Guardian
Grace Dent ate “well, and more than that, memorably” at a multiple prizewinning and “artily boho” pub that is “for the adventurous diner who is happy to enjoy the culinary ride”.
The 16th-century building may be “still a rather dark, snug pub, with crooked ceilings, exposed beams, log burners and a loo up olde worlde winding stairs”, but unlike “your everyday boozer”, its menu steers clear of buttermilk chicken burger, pulled pork in a bap or sticky toffee pudding.
Instead, there is even a seven-course tasting menu comprising such dishes as venison loin with caramelised salsify and a passion fruit, pineapple and rum panna cotta, with a vegetarian alternative “that also pulls no punches”. The “imaginative, slightly maverick chef” Dave Wall even has a turntable in the kitchen so dishes can be plated with immaculate circles of sauce.
Grace Dent - 2025-01-26
