Stockwell, Italian Restaurant Guide

“A short menu of high quality” continues to win acclaim for this “great little Italian off Clapham High Street”, where the “delicious sharing plates” are inspired by renowned chef-patron Robin Gill’s time working on the Amalfi coast. He first made his name here in Clapham with The Dairy, which opened 12 years ago and closed down in 2020.

Opening its 10th branch in 2025 – amidst the towers of Canary Wharf – this much commented- on chain is leaving behind its Soho roots – as a quaint old deli of 75 years’ standing – and is now in full-on ‘roll-out’ mode. Fans still find it “very impressive for a chain that’s growing so fast” and tip its “lovely mint-green” outlets as “an ideal place to meet and enjoy authentic pasta and Italian dishes”. Some branches, though, are better than others: in particular the “friendly and relaxed Marylebone branch at the junction of Wigmore Street is a winner”. Others, though, can show the strains of expansion: “What’s the point? It’s neither stand-out, nor cheap and cheerful. Unexceptional pasta is served in a so-so ambience. I am not sure I get it??”