Llantrisant, British, Traditional - Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: “Always excellent food” has built a strong reputation for local lad Tom Watts-Jones’s well-regarded pub in the Vale of Glamorgan. Chef’s CV includes stints at London’s St John and also The Anchor & Hope. There are numerous menus here, including an à la carte or nine-course tasting option.

White-painted walls and a sparse, woody interior add to the modernised feel of this ‘Pub & Hotel’ on the fringe of Cardiff, which now more gives the impression of “an interesting restaurant, with an excellent range of beer”. The stated aim is ‘not pretentious fine dining; it’s just about good food’ – so you can choose from the bistro-esque set menu (two courses for £39 per person) or there’s a fancier nine-course tasting menu for £75 per person.

On the site of Nook (RIP), Andy Ashton & Lewis Dwyer moved their pop-up-turned-permanent restaurant to this Victoria Park site in late 2024, bringing with it an eight- or ten-course tasting menu for £70/£90 per person (with a three-course alternative available at lunch at £33 per person). It’s yet to generate a huge volume of feedback in our annual diners’ poll, but such as we have is very upbeat: “Like the name Hiraeth (which means longing) I long to return here and think of it often. Great menu, service and atmosphere led by a brilliant team doing great things!”. Top Tip – they do take drop-ins for a bite here (‘“if you’d just like a glass of wine & some ‘picky bits’ please pop in. We don’t take bookings for this but if we have a table available, you are welcome to it!”)