Holt, Mediterranean Restaurant Guide

This “Reading institution” occupying an 18th-century tollhouse in the town centre has “had a few ups and downs over the last 25 years, but this year is back on top form with a solid menu and excellent service”. Self-taught chef owner Paul Clerehugh, a former rock guitarist with Sweet, also runs the Crooked Billet music pub in Stoke Row (see also).

“It would be damning with faint praise to say that this is one of Reading’s better restaurants, but it certainly is” – a “striking” and “carefully converted Lido” with spa, where you dine poolside and enjoy the “romantic” and “soothing” spectacle of “watching others swim whilst you eat”. “The dishes nod towards the Mediterranean and feature a wealth of flavours and textures”, as well as feeling “healthy and wholesome” (except, that is, the “naughty but nice” desserts). Some regulars here this year, though, said the food was “good, but not as good as on our last visit”.