Anstey Restaurant Guide

A Georgian country house hotel packed with British post-war art and “within easy reach of London” for the mini-break set; Skye Gyngell of Petersham Nurseries Café fame oversees the two restaurants, with Marle being the fancier, orangery-style dining room with a Michelin Green Star reflecting the hotel’s focus on sustainability. As in previous years, not everyone is convinced by the pared-back dishes, with those who “enjoyed the occasion” counterbalanced by those who found it “somewhat lacking – expected more”. But even cynics concede it’s still “above average”.

The ‘live-fire’ option at this Hampshire spa hotel offers “excellent if expensive food from the marvellous Skye Gyngell”, making best use of “lovely locally grown ingredients” and of an informal setting in the old stable block – for some guests it’s their “favourite of the Heckfield Place restaurants”, in preference to the more formal dining room-based Marle.

2022 Review: “Have a lovely walk to work up an appetite” before visiting this laidback brick-walled boozer on the River Meon, handy for the South Downs Way, and with a “very nice little garden down by the brook”. To make sure of enjoying its “great” pubby staples “you need to book – even midweek – as it’s very popular”.

Relaunched in January 2024 by the owners of the nearby 16th-century country house estate Avington Park – who stepped in to save the day after receiving a letter from villagers aghast at the closure of their beloved local – this “recently refurbished, attractive pub” is once again back in business. Nowadays there’s a “lovely outdoor terrace”, plus a village shop and deli, and rooms should you wish to overnight; on the food front, “good” small plates and pub classics, and it’s also “perfect for a traditional Sunday lunch”.

2023 Review: “A wonderful country experience” is reported at this rural inn (‘The Hodd’), run by the Barnes family since 2015, whose concise menu aims for superior realisation of classic pub dishes.

A former courthouse with exposed beams plays host to this rustic and tiny European restaurant run by chef Nathan Marshall and FOH wife Evi, a “lovely lady” whose Hungarian roots sometimes inspire the fine-dining on the menu. On limited feedback this year, there were reports of some “delicious” dishes and as we went to press, demand for a table was so high that they were already fully booked for 2024! Top Tip – to circumvent the need to book way ahead, keep an eye on their Instagram account (@n.marshall_chef), where they sometimes advertise last-minute cancellations.

This August 2025 newcomer (opened too late for any feedback in our annual diners’ poll) occupies a converted 16th-century pub and is run by Kelly Shaw, a first-time publican, joined by chef Tristan Lee, previously chef-owner of the well-regarded Restaurant Tristan in Horsham (who has returned to the stoves after a two-year sabbatical). The aim is ‘not about chasing trends’ but an all-day kind of pub with food that’s ‘simple, seasonal and soulful’ from a short evolving menu (sample dishes include Spiced Monkfish with pakora; Pork Schnitzel with samphire and fennel remoulade; and Lemon Meringue Pie). There are also carefully curated beers, wines and cocktails.

“Love the ambience… no pressure to quit the table and nice to overlook the river” – such are the plus points of these flexible, comfortable and welcoming homes-from-home in the Home Counties and in London near Tower Bridge and in Putney. Celebration? Both locations also feature funky little Thames-side ‘igloos’ seating up to 8. Looking for great food too? Don’t bother! “Disappointment” is often registered regarding the salads, pizza and other very middle of the road fare – keep your celebrations as liquid as possible…

This “beautifully renovated” 17th-century free house “in a wonderful position on the South Downs” has been “transformed from a run-down pub to a welcoming local with fantastic food” under the ownership of Clive & Tanith Cummings (whose previous project, an abbey in France that they ran for 17 years, was the subject of Channel 4 property show ‘Escape to the Chateau DIY’). “The historic building is now thriving again, with a roaring fire to welcome customers on winter days, and a restaurant of design and character” that serves “proper, seriously lovely food, not gastropub fare”, from a “tapas-style menu”. It’s a family business, with son Lewis managing the bar and daughter Georgia the wine list.

“This country pub is a real gem” – “the quality of the food is its main strength” since being taken over by an ambitious young duo in Sam Fiddian-Green and Alex Winch, who have “used their local food connections to develop an excellent, short but well-balanced menu” with “relatively small starters and delicious, sophisticated mains”. “Service is very friendly and charming, if still finding its feet”, and there are 15 chic rooms and shepherd’s huts for overnight stays.