Willian, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: This village pub-with-rooms just off the A1 offers “attractively presented food” on a menu which is “a cut above standard gastropub fare” – best enjoyed in the “new outside dining area, which in summer evokes a lovely Mediterranean feel”.

“Enjoyable” farmhouse in a countryside setting just north of London that’s “more restaurant than pub, and one of the best places in the area for good cooking” – “there’s lobster and oysters, you could ask for nothing more!” – from “an excellent and varied menu, alongside personable-but-efficient service and a good choice of reasonably priced wines”. It’s a “lively, vibrant” spot, and “in summer, tables out in the garden are lovely, particularly as the conservatory dining room can be very noisy”.

“Tucked away in a little corner of Hertfordshire”, this pub/restaurant from “brothers in perfection” Tom (self-taught chef) & Ben (ex-Fat Duck manager) Bainbridge trades in meals that are “innovative, fun and enjoyable”, with an “absolute focus upon flavour” – “staff are warm, caring and always willing to have a laugh”, while the “impressive and comprehensive wine list covers the globe”. (For one fan, it all even added up to “an experience well worth an awful 58-mile drive, mostly on the M25!”). Top Menu Tip – “the most astonishingly flavoursome carrot purée ever tasted”.

“Beautifully situated” beside a lake on the grand Brocket Hall Estate, this bucolic but luxurious former hunting lodge is acknowledged by fans as “a truly great choice for a special occasion”. It’s known for a high standard of traditional Anglo-French cuisine and for (older) traditional types it’s “very pleasing that all fellow diners make an effort to dress accordingly”. But it’s also often attracted lukewarm feedback over many years, and has a stop-go record with numerous long periods of closure, changes of chef, refurbs and relaunches, yet another of which is underway in September 2025 following a closure in May 2025.

2022 Review: Popular with walkers, this attractive eighteenth-century boozer is “very cosy inside and out” (the latter courtesy of a “godsend” of an outdoor tipi). On the culinary front, it's “a cut above pub grub, with surprisingly well-cooked and presented food, especially the fish dishes, and good veggie options too”. “Their own beer (Farr Brew) is also very fresh and tasty.”

“Excellent restaurant-quality cooking” – “several notches above typical gastropub standard” – wins fans for this venue on the edge of a common in a “quaint town in leafy Hertfordshire”. Chef and co-owner Matthew Reeder operated a supper club on the premises when it was run as a pub by his father; he later returned with the skills he picked up working in some top-class kitchens (The Typing Room, Galvin Bros, Anglo, where he was head chef), delivering meals that “take some beating”. ‘Steak nights’ do feature, but more characteristic dishes include the likes of Salt Marsh Lamb, Pea à la Française, Black Garlic; or Roasted John Dory, Caper, and Sea Herbs.

“Fascinating dishes served with enthusiasm” make a meal at this small tasting menu-only restaurant on the edge of town “a great experience”. Steven Barringer is a “passionate chef” heading a young team “who clearly care” and he takes the time to chat to his guests, while his cooking is both “interesting and subtle”, in particular the “superb fish dishes” and “amazing desserts”.