Tower Hill, French Restaurant Guide

Solid bastion of City life that has provided a “slice of France with the usual French flair” for four decades, along with service that is “excellent given how busy they are”. On the upper floor of the wrought-iron Leadenhall Market, it makes an “always reliable choice for a work lunch or dinner in the Square Mile”.

“Just look at that view!” – Tower Bridge seen from the terrace of this sleek riverside restaurant is a spectacular sight, as the late Sir Terence Conran recognised when he launched the venue in 1991. Now part of the Evolv Collection, its ratings have revived somewhat in recent years with its French cuisine again hitting the spot. But many diners have moved on, and it’s nowadays a relatively obscure destination, especially by the standards of its ’90s heyday as one of the hottest tables in town (where, most famously, PM Tony Blair hosted then-President Clinton).

“Magical Korean/French food delivered with precision and style that blows your mind with its brilliant combinations of flavours” continues to win acclaim for Woongchul Park & Bomee Ki’s “very likeable” passion project near The Shard (which was hailed as Top Newcomer of the Year by Harden’s after it opened in 2020). The cuisine is “reasonably unique for London with its fusion of European and Korean traditions” and the resulting dishes are a “delicate” and sophisticated combination of the two, with pastry (prepared by Bomee) a particular strength. Opinions on the room differ: to fans “beautifully decorated in quite a subtle style”, to others “comfortable if plain”.

“Luxurious decor, booths and the infamous ‘Press for Champagne’ button by the table, make it all feel quite Russian oligarchy” at Leonid Shutov’s “fun”, “blingy and gimmicky” Soho diner, which feels a bit like a stage set for ‘The Orient Express’. It also has a less commented-on sibling in the City’s ‘Cheesegrater’ building, decked out in a similar but more glossy style, which puts a Bladerunner-esque spin on the theme suited to its skyscraper setting. Both offer privacy and a supremely cosetting setting and are often tipped for special dates or less-formal business entertaining. “The menu likewise has oligarch vibes, with the likes of caviar, vodka shots, oysters and truffles, but this is alongside a great mix of comfort food like pie, chicken Kyiv, and mac ’n’ cheese”. On balance, the food is judged “well-executed” but even so fans can still feel that “some items are highly priced for what they are”. Top Menu Tips – “the real reason to go is the beef Wellington… utterly delicious, cooked perfectly and a generous portion”. Also “fine wine mark-ups are capped at £75” – so if you push the boat out enough it can be a relative bargain!