Toot Baldon, Japanese Restaurant Guide

An Oxford institution in its 26th year, Meiko & Peter Galpin’s “tiny restaurant”, “close to the historic Holywell Music Room”, serves “top-quality authentic Japanese home cooking”, including “large bowls of tasty ramen soup and daily specials”, with “one sushi evening a week” (much in demand, on Thursdays). Top Tip – “it’s cramped”, very popular, and there’s “no advance booking” – so it pays to arrive very early.

“The ramen is excellent” at this West End-based group from the Japan Centre’s Tak Tokumine – although “the rest of the menu is not as good” and the venues tend to be “too cramped and/or noisy to be ideal”. A drive to expand via franchise operations has apparently stalled since the summer 2022 opening of a branch in Kensington High Street – a possible sign that “we may have passed peak noodle”.

“Expensive, but high-quality yakitori skewers and sushi” are a “delicious and original offering that suit all ages”, and win little but praise for this “very consistent” chain, whose minimalist Scandi style reflects its origins in Copenhagen. Success continues to bring fast expansion, with recent openings in Westfield W12 (in December 2022) and Shoreditch (in March 2023) and more soon to follow in Richmond (October 2023) and Kingston (early 2024). Phew! Top Menu Tip – “truffle paste cauliflower side dish to die for (who knew?)”.