The Times
Tim Hayward overcome his restaurant critic’s disdain for chains to praise the latest, more affordable spinoff from Dishoom (also with branches in Cambridge and Brighton), whose décor he described as a “superbly specific amalgam of Indian/hippy/disco” – whether or not such a time and place ever really existed.
The food was consistently delicious, most notably the Dishoom-derived black daal that “does with lentils and ghee what Joel Robuchon did with mashed potatoes and butter”, and a “remarkable” prawn moilee that tasted of… prawns! In short, “Permit Rooms seems to be managing the complicated challenge of growing without going bad”.
Tim Hayward - 2025-01-12
Drinks
Extras
