Pickering, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: “Assured cooking from an interesting menu means you could do a lot worse in the area” than this seventeenth-century village pub. Young chef-patron Ali Moran, who took over a year ago, grew up in the neighbouring hamlet of Hartoft, and serves game from his parents’ farm.

“Back after the terrible fire which is great news!” – Andrew Pern’s famous pub in rural Yorkshire is, say fans, “back at the top of its game” and – having “recently refurbished” out of necessity is “everything a top restaurant should be”. One of the top 100 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll: “it’s not really a pub” anymore and the interior is “as beautiful as the food”: “delicious cooking, using mainly local produce”. It would have scored even higher ratings this year, were it not for a couple of reporters who felt the offering didn’t live up to its high billing, but even they still rated it decently well. And most regulars are just plain delighted to have it back: “I make the pilgrimage there from London twice a year and have done so since 2004. It is just a fantastic all-round experience that never disappoints!”

“If you want a hotel with a really good restaurant, this is the place for you” – Jacquie Pern’s “slightly formal” but reliably “quality” venture, occupies a “lovely setting” in a North Yorks village. “With the terrible fire at The Star Inn (next door, and run by Pern’s ex-husband), the Pheasant was taking the lead in looking after dining for the two operations” – but thankfully the Star reopened in Nov 2022, a year after it was laid low by an arson attack.

2021 Review: “Splendid cafe/restaurant in a charming building overlooking Helmsley's picturesque stream that’s on another plane altogether from Helmsley’s other establishments”. Sibling to the York original it serves “delicious, wholesome café food”: “the selection, especially from the specials board, is always interesting, and uses lots of local seasonal ingredients”.

Peter Neville made his name in these parts with venues including The Pheasant in Harome, which he co-owns; in 2021, he and partner Cecily Fearnley upped sticks to her home village to open this converted farmhouse restaurant (plus on-site holiday cottage), and by all accounts it’s a “lovely spot” amidst the moors, whose “beautifully presented” local/seasonal cooking wins consistently high ratings.