Leicester, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Always a winner, John (Duffin) delivers every time”, enthuse fans of his well-regarded venture, which they acclaim for its “exceptional food and wonderful service”. It’s a “fascinating location”, on the site of his family’s farm, which informs the farm-to-plate ethos, delivering “excellent, reasonably priced” food (à la carte or tasting menu) and there’s a certain “something about this place that makes it a lovely occasion”.

“A stunningly beautiful position overlooking Rutland Water” helps set an appropriately stately tone at Tim Hart’s “lovely” mansion (previously owned by the Hoare banking family, and actually built before the surrounding lake was created in 1975). In its rather traditional-looking dining room, “the consistency of Aaron Patterson's cooking has proved extraordinary over three decades. Ingredients from the kitchen garden and the area are superb – beautifully presented but without fuss”. And “sommelier Dominique Baduel’s wines complement the food to perfection”. Despite its un-flashy style, it’s one of our annual diners’ poll’s most commented-on and highly rated destinations. (And hospitality clearly runs in the blood, as Tim’s children run a string of high-profile London hits, including Barrafina, Quo Vadis and El Pastor).