Birdlip, Indian Restaurant Guide

“Superb Keralan food” (“the lunchtime thalis are an absolute bargain”) wins nothing but praise for this outfit run by the third generation of a family that immigrated to Britain from India half a century ago; add in “lovely and helpful service” and a “very pleasant setting” (“quiet enough for easy conversation”) and “what’s not to like?”. There are two local siblings: fine-diner ‘Prithvi’ and, at the other end of the scale, burger joint ‘Holee Cow’.

Owned by the same people who run Muse Brasserie in the town, and on the former site of Spice Lodge, which graced the area for 15 years – this “upmarket” Indian fine-diner has successfully emerged as one of the area’s top subcontinental choices. Chef Anuj Thakur draws inspiration from dishes across India in his progressive cooking, which takes in à la carte, set options and five- or seven-course tasting menus.