Aberystwyth, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Was it expensive, yes. Was it challenging, yes. Was it worth it, YES!” Gareth Ward’s famous matt-black painted mansion in the mists of mid-Wales isn’t one of the nation’s most expensive culinary pilgrimages for nothing, and fans of its maximalist style – complete with loud music and no end of restaurant ‘theatre’ – say that even if its 20-30 course menus are “a bit too protein-centric” (to be fair, the website does say they claim to be ‘protein-obsessed’) that “you can’t fault the cooking or the passion” that drives “an incredible all-round experience” hailed by some as “the best in the UK”. It still gets the thumbs up from a majority of reporters, but – as its prices have ballooned over its 10 years in operation – doubts have crept in and there’s a significant minority for whom it risks becoming “pretentious and overpriced”. (“It used to be exceptional, but IMHO has now jumped the shark with loud music, arrogant service, and stratospheric prices detracting greatly from its outstanding and interesting cooking…”; “It used to be a favourite of ours but is now more like a boot camp. Arrive when told, dine when told, leave when told… and all at a cost far greater than many Michelin star restaurants in Mayfair!”)