Fenix

Summary

Up-and-down reports on this swanky modern Greek venue in the new St John’s development (from the same group who own the Insta-friendly Tattu chain), whose website promises not only ‘experiential dining’ but also ‘fire, rebirth and renewal’ [far out man… Ed]. No-one rates the food terribly, but more than one reporter diagnoses “a triumph of style over substance”… although there was some substance (“it felt like a good kitchen was failing to show what it could do”). (The Observer’s Jay Rayner was also pulled both ways in his January 2024 review, although his ultimate verdict was upbeat: it may look “like the cantina from the original Star Wars, only with added hummus” but the food “really is all sorts of delicious and, in its own way, thoroughly comforting”).