The Observer
Chitra Ramaswamy hailed this new arrival from chef James Murray (formerly of Le Manoir and an ex-head chef at Timberyard) as “a late entry to my best new restaurants of 2025 and, as they said on TOTP in my day, straight in at number one.”
A “hyped restaurant, risen, as such mythical beasts are, from the ashes of an extinct old boozer”, Dogstar impressed from Chitra’s very first nibble, a fat slice of “the best focaccia of 2025”.
The bread was accompanied by bagna cauda of the “ferociously punchy kind that, like a toe-curling memory, comes back on you for days. Proof that no matter how ubiquitous food trends get, when you meet them at their very best they’re unforgettable.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2025-12-14
