The Times
Giles Coren and his family dropped into a “lovely” old drovers’ inn where they enjoyed “good, hearty, locally sourced, homecooked food” that was “all one asks for, but so rarely gets”.
Steak is the main attraction here – there is a running score on the wall of the number of Chateaubriands consumed since 2012 – but Giles chose instead “three hefty cutlets from a rack of overwintered lamb, grainy and dense, with sweet, yellow, buttery fat”.
Noting that this was his third positive review from the North East in two months, Giles stressed that the food is by no means universally good in these parts. He was staying in the “poshest hotel in the county” – which he did not identify (“they know who they are”) – whose three restaurants were uniformly terrible, while the “delightful” Twice Brewed Inn, a “stonking” beer pub in the village of Once Brewed, served only frozen food from the microwave.
Giles Coren - 2026-03-29
Drinks
Extras
