The Observer
Guest reviewer Chitra Ramaswamy headed to a former architecture office where self-taught chef Anna Hedworth – herself a former architect who once worked in it – runs the “buzziest neighbourhood restaurant” in Newcastle.
“The menus are locally sourced and so seasonal that they’re printed daily… Everything’s made in-house, from sodas to an exemplary kimchi so funky it brings me out in a sweat to admit we almost didn’t order it. (It also, like great kimchi, brings me out in an actual sweat.)”
Hedworth’s “genius” is “to not give you the flavour your palate expects, but something so perilously close to it that you get a jolt of pleasure, then go: ‘What the heck was that?’.” A case in point was the blackberry ice-cream choux bun with cream spiked with salt, vanilla and basil, which “brings out floral notes in the herb we think we know so well. In essence, it’s the best ice-cream sandwich you’ve ever devoured.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2025-10-19