Harden's survey result
Mark Poynton’s “rather clinical” venue has always put in a Curate’s Egg performance in our survey due to its location (“a bit off”, near a major road junction), its decor (“not a lot of soul”) and sometimes its service (on occasion “intrusive”). Michelin chose this year to strip the place of its star, but there’s no support in our feedback for this decision as – despite all the above caveats – all reports this year noted that its ambitious cuisine (nowadays from chef Samira Effa) is “undoubtedly good” if not “excellent”. Perhaps a planned refurb in early 2018 will finally put a tiger in its tank.
“The location isn’t fab as it’s on a busy road at a main junction, which you have to get across as the parking is on the far side”, and “some criticise the rather stark red-and-black interior” too (“wonderful and modern” to fans, but “just doesn’t work” to critics). Perhaps it’s all part of “balancing innovation with a conservative local clientele”? Certainly the “unfussy” service was the least controversial point this year – “charming, and just the right side of attentive”; foodwise, Mark Poynton’s brave venture is a ‘Marmite’ experience: for some it’s bitterly disappointing (“I was so pleased when this restaurant got its Michelin star, but visiting after two years, I found it complacent and lazy”); for the majority it’s “exciting as ever, precise, fun, and with great ingredients”; and for one fan it’s “out of this world”.
152-154 Hills Rd, Cambridge, CB2 8PB
|Monday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9:30 pm|
|Tuesday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9:30 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9:30 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9:30 pm|
|Friday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9:30 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9:30 pm|
|Sunday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6 pm‑9 pm|