Pantygelli, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Get there before Shaun Hill retires!”, say fans of this famous Welsh pub-with-rooms (two miles outside Abergavenny), which was made famous by Franco Taruschio in the 1970s and where Shaun has been chef-patron since 2008. Turning 79 in 2026, he’s put in an amazing stint at the stoves, including his days as chef-patron at Ludlow’s now defunct Merchant House. His style of cooking has always been deceptively straightforward, and the menu is likewise, presented as an à la carte selection. However, most mains are far from cheap – at £40-£50 per dish – and although “exceptional” meals are reported, ratings (normally a model of consistency) ticked lower this year, with a couple of long-term fans noting “we’ve followed Shaun Hill for years, but were disappointed this time”. Others, though, say “while prices are getting very high, it’s still a good experience”.