Old Portsmouth, British, Modern - Restaurant Guide

2025 Review: The building has a history dating back to the 1780s, and its current occupant has developed into a real local staple since launching in its current guise in 2003: an airy bistro with a conservatory and terrace. Adam Maker has headed up the kitchen for the past few years and, while he no longer seems to be doing small plates mentioned in last year’s edition, has settled on fixtures like fish ‘n’ chips, pizzas and a popular Sunday roast: cooking that’s “always reliable”. Oenophiles NB: Camber Wines sits above the restaurant, so top tipples are guaranteed.

This “local gem on the quay” at Emsworth is “such an amazing restaurant”, with a reputation that stretches back over three decades – chef Gary Pearce joined the kitchen at 17 then worked abroad at Noma, Old Sluis and other grand venues before returning with his wife Martyna, eventually taking over from Ramon Farthing six years ago. There’s plenty of fish and seafood on the menu, as expected from the location, but also an unusual selection of Australian wagyu and Japanese Kobe beef.

Little changed over its 25 years in operation, Lawrence & Julia Murphy’s small, sweet bistro is a short walk up the main street from the waterfront in Emsworth, and occupies a 17th-century fisherman’s cottage. The motto under the logo is ‘Friendly Food, Tasty People’ and its accommodating service has always been a key feature, alongside well-priced, traditional-ish cuisine. For whatever reason, it failed to inspire the typical volume of feedback this year, but we’ve maintained its ratings from 2025 on the basis of its very consistent performance over more than two decades.

2022 Review: Sailor-turned-entrepreneur Ed Collison set up his popular venue at Emsworth yacht basin at the age of 21 in 2016, serving everything from £4.50 bacon breakfast rolls to a splash-out seafood platter for two at £120 a pop. During lockdown he launched a fleet of silver catering vans, and in November 2021 announced a new branch of the Deck, replacing the Boat House Café, at Gosport marina.

“This old-fashioned hotel features two restaurants sharing a kitchen – the more upmarket Sea School and Marwick ’s Brasserie”. Set in three 17th-century cottages and a converted barn, the property has been owned by the Wild family for 50 years, with chef Neil Hiskey running the kitchen for half of that time. A classic afternoon tea is also offered in Markwick’s, so it’s very much “a place to take aged relatives”.

2022 Review: “Have a lovely walk to work up an appetite” before visiting this laidback brick-walled boozer on the River Meon, handy for the South Downs Way, and with a “very nice little garden down by the brook”. To make sure of enjoying its “great” pubby staples “you need to book – even midweek – as it’s very popular”.

2023 Review: With its “delightful setting looking out across the South Downs” – a view from the window said to have inspired William Blake’s anthem Jerusalem in 1803 – this eighteenth-century coaching inn is quite a draw, especially in summer when you can dine in the garden. The cooking is generally “creditable” (although both highs and lows were reported this year). The business has been owned since 2007 by Giles Thompson, formerly executive head chef at The Ritz. Jerusalem.

2024 Review: Four miles from Chichester, and bordering the South Downs National Park, this 200-year-old pub-with-rooms is part proper boozer (upfront) and part tastefully arty restaurant offering ambitious gastrofare. Reporters this year praised the “warm ambience” and a “treat” of a menu that features some “standout courses” such as scallops and venison.

On a site previously occupied by Cargo, Daniel Rogan’s new June 2025 newcomer opened after our annual diners’ poll had finished. Run by the son of star Lakeland chef, Simon Rogan, this new venue is a parallel project to Rogan Jr’s fancier, tasting menu-based ‘AO by Daniel Rogan’ (which closed in August 2024 and which is awaiting a re-launch). But while this latest venue is in a simpler small plates format to ‘AO’, it is claimed to be ‘grounded in the same principles of creativity, quality, and craft’.