Oakham, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

Dating back over 1,000 years (although rebuilt many times in the interim), this marvellously grand coaching inn is “a truly wonderful institution that helps define Stamford”. “One may eat in the glorious setting of the courtyard on fine summer days, or in one of several other sites inside”, not least its “historic panelled Oak Room” (to which this review relates). “None of the food is at the pointed end of modern cooking”, being “of the gleaming trolley of roast beef and whole Dover sole mode” (or else of the “fabulous afternoon tea” mode), but – while it’s most definitely “on the pricey side” – this is arguably the kind of old-school rarity that “should be treasured” (and if you’re at all price conscious, the “good value set lunch” is the way to go). Former owner Lawrence Hoskins – whose legacy lives on in the “very decent wine list” – passed away in 2023, having celebrated 50 years at the helm just a few months earlier.