Milton Abbot, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This “romantic” hotel (owned by Olga Polizzi) occupies a “stunning location overlooking the Tamar Valley”. A diner recommending it for a date says its “roaring fires” and “old-school country-house atmosphere” help to “make up for any lack of quality in the rather traditional menu”. But that’s the only hint of criticism and all reports on its cooking were fundamentally upbeat this year. “Start with drinks on the terrace gazing at the dazzling views and then enjoy the three-course à la carte menu in the cosy, wood-panelled dining room at sunset”.

2022 Review: “Good all round” – the consistent ratings at this famous sporting hotel on the edge of Dartmoor have not been ruffled by its 2020 sale by the Fox-Edwards family that owned and ran it for 60 years to new custodians and former guests Simon Village & Arabella Monro. The 300-year-old former coaching inn has 20 miles of private riverbank and a fly-fishing school established in the 1930, and also caters for game shooting and deer-stalking parties. Meals are served in the dining room and bar, and there is a new deli providing picnic hampers.

“This outstanding hotel overlooking the Tamar Valley on the border of Devon and Cornwall is a joy and the restaurant is one of its selling points” – another being the country pile’s “magnificent views”. One reporter who last visited in its heyday (in the 1980s) found it a little more average these days, but other diners praise its “well presented and tasty cooking” at “fair prices”.