Hovingham, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“Simply sublime” cooking wins huge support for Josh & Victoria Ovington’s converted pub in a small village half an hour from York which opened in mid 2023 and which is now one of the top-50 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll; and with a very high proportion of diners reporting their best meal of the year here. It’s not a place to drop by – the main event by night is an eighteen course menu championing the Yorkshire ‘terroir’ for £165 per person; at lunch a mere fourteen courses for £115 per person. Many fans have approvingly followed the couple’s progress from their days in York: “I thought that when they were at Le Cochon Aveugle they couldn’t be surpassed but moving to Myse they’ve pulled out all the stops. Incredible”. It’s a “lovely” place too (“especially in winter next to a roaring fire”), with rooms available for dinner, bed and breakfast.