Fontwell Restaurant Guide

As it heads into third decade, Viv Casson’s “slightly dated but cosy” restaurant (rustic, with exposed brick and many a beam) has long been known in these parts for its “lovely food and service”, which extends to regular themed dinners, including eight- or nine-course tasting menu nights.

“Given the reputation of the chain of Pig Restaurants/Hotels, we were looking forward to a very enjoyable evening; and it was enjoyable… but not because of the food”. Too many reports this year had significant reservations about this branch of the famous shabby chic hotel chain, where “the conservatory restaurant is very pleasant on a sunny day with long views across wooded Sussex downland”. “Rammed and noisy, with a car park full of expensive motors, this beautiful spot in the South Downs (reached by a narrow lane)” can “ultimately seem more style than substance” for a number who comment. “The food is pleasant, nice, but nothing special… better than adequate but not worthy of their reputation”. “The menu focuses on sourcing ingredients from within 25 miles, including some zero-miles vegetables grown on site – but the cooking doesn’t justify the prices. It’s at the level you might expect in a pub that serves decent enough food but with no pretensions to being noted for its cooking”. “In other words, a restaurant in lovely surroundings living on their reputation not their quality”. “Service is satisfactory but a touch amateur at times” and at others “disengaged”.

2022 Review: “The food is excellent, and you’re made to feel welcome” at this showcase for the produce of the Goodwood Estate, an early convert to organic farming (although Lord March, the Duke of Richmond, is better known as a petrol-head). “They’ve turned the courtyard into a lovely space”, and the highlight of the menu is the ‘butcher’s board’ sharing selection of various meat cuts.

It’s “always a pleasure to eat” at this “charming location with equally charming owners and staff” – chef-patron Lee Parsons and his wife Liz have clocked up ten years at this “absolute favourite family-run restaurant”, which is particularly notable for its “über-fresh and expertly cooked fish” among other “delicious and imaginative dishes”. There’s a “lovely, friendly atmosphere”, and you “leave with a feeling of money well spent (unusual these days!)”. Top Tip – “if you’re driving, allow 15 minutes to find somewhere to park”.