Angel, Mediterranean Restaurant Guide

Brunch in particular is “varied and delicious” at this vibey group: launched a decade ago as a pop-up in an ex-greasy spoon in Balham and progressing via supper clubs to six permanent sites open till late. “Great flatbreads with the mezze” and “the beautiful treatment of vegetables” are typical of the “simple and very good” Eastern Mediterranean dishes, wines and cocktails inspired by co-founder Tas Gaitanos’s Cretan/Cypriot heritage (the name honours owner Alex Large’s kid brother). Summer 2025’s Canary Wharf opening was the biggest yet, with an 80-seater outdoor terrace and a new dedicated ‘skewers’ menu.

“This ever-friendly cafe sibling of next door Moro is a wonderful place to eat great tapas” – “especially sitting outside in Exmouth market”. Husband-and-wife team Sam & Sam Clark’s 15-year-old spin-off provides “superb tasty food at very reasonable prices” in a “casual but professional” environment, encompassing “interesting plates” of Spanish and North African-inspired food that is “not pretentious but delivers great enjoyment”. There’s a second branch in Hackney Road.

“A relative newcomer to the Exmouth Market scene” – this “cool” and mega-popular yearling (a sibling to Perilla, see also) is “a lovely, light and airy” space, “interestingly converted from an old bank building” with “an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs at work” (“it’s great fun to sit at the counter”). “Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of the menu; this is a thoughtful, skilfully executed menu” of “creative Med-inspired dishes” whose “flavours pack a real punch” (although “all the small plates can add up to a large bill”). “Interesting wine selection” too. Top Menu Tips – “light bite starters are simply delicious: salt cod churros, vitello tonnato rolled up like a cigar to bite into, and absolutely delicious spanakopita – two mouthfuls of heaven, the most divine crisp thin filo and the filling intense and tasty”; “amazing sobrasada; very interesting, whole salt-baked poussin and rigatoni with smoked morchella mushrooms”.