The Times
Giles Coren had never visited this tiny cult venue which has attracted permanent queues since opening in 2020 (“I don’t queue”), but news of a bigger, bookable branch opening around the corner brought him promptly in its first week of trading. He found a “glorious jewel in London’s Cantonese crown”, with cooking of “total commitment, perfect timing and unstinting attention to the basics” – all at astonishingly generous prices, thanks partly to its being a cash-based business.
“Impeccable” sui mai (soup-filled dumplings) were followed by cheung fun: “oh my days… the prawns were first wrapped in crispy bean curd skin before being steamed in their floppy rice noodle tube…everything I dream of when I dream of dim sum”. Then came “the real standout”, golden king prawns from the chef’s specials.
Giles had to return to sample the roast meats – and “it was even better the second time: a quarter of ethereal roast duck, sweet and fat and golden; fried prawn wontons served sizzling hot from the oil, with salad cream; silky pork dumplings in chilli oil sauce; morning glory in chilli and bean curd; bottomless jasmine tea — £47 including service”.
Giles Coren - 2026-04-05
Drinks
Extras
