The Times
Giles Coren had never visited this tiny cult venue which has attracted permanent queues since opening in 2020 (“I don’t queue”), but news of a bigger, bookable branch opening around the corner brought him promptly in its first week of trading. He found a “glorious jewel in London’s Cantonese crown”, with cooking of “total commitment, perfect timing and unstinting attention to the basics” – all at astonishingly generous prices, thanks partly to its being a cash-based business.
“Impeccable” sui mai (soup-filled dumplings) were followed by cheung fun: “oh my days… the prawns were first wrapped in crispy bean curd skin before being steamed in their floppy rice noodle tube…everything I dream of when I dream of dim sum”. Then came “the real standout”, golden king prawns from the chef’s specials.
Giles had to return to sample the roast meats – and “it was even better the second time: a quarter of ethereal roast duck, sweet and fat and golden; fried prawn wontons served sizzling hot from the oil, with salad cream; silky pork dumplings in chilli oil sauce; morning glory in chilli and bean curd; bottomless jasmine tea — £47 including service”.
Giles Coren - 2026-04-05Daily Mail
Tom Parker Bowles found “pure exalted Cantonese comfort” at the second branch of a cult canteen near King’s Cross, whose perma-queues had always defeated his previous attempts at eating there.
The dim sum were “peerless… precisely made and precisely steamed, with no unnecessary frills or flourishes”. Xiao long bao were made with “dough just thick enough to contain the liquid without splitting, but not so sullenly dense that chewing becomes a chore”.
The seafood was particularly good: king prawns, buried under a blizzard of deep-fried chilli and garlic to be eaten whole, “a thrilling cacophony of taste and texture”; razor clams “softly chewy” in a mess of fresh chillies and vermicelli noodles.
Tom Parker Bowles - 2026-10-04
Drinks
Extras
