Wiswell Restaurant Guide

It’s something of a case of ‘plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose’ at this famous foodie boutique hotel in the Ribble Valley, just off the A59, where star chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen quit in early 2025, only almost immediately to announce her return after the property had been sold by The Stafford Collection to kitchen manufacturer magnates, Alf & Clare Ellis; and where – all the while – indefatigable MD Craig Bancroft continued to marshall operations (as well as the considerable wine list). Despite all the changes, reports and ratings in our annual diners’ poll – in which the hotel is a top-40 most commented-on destination outside London – consistently acknowledge it as a “beautiful venue that always delivers high quality food, with a welcome emphasis on local produce”; and with “Lisa Goodwin-Allen doing a magnificent job of maintaining high standards here”. There are a variety of dining options, with the à la carte offering supplemented by a variety of tasting and chef’s table menus. And “the friendliness and professionalism of all the staff led by Mr B is truly excellent”. “Their special events are truly special” too, with many foodies knowing of the hotel via their annual Obsession festival in January and February each year. (Big changes are envisaged in future under the new owners, including the completion of a new-build dining pavilion for Lisa; transformation of the existing dining room into a more relaxed brasserie; and a complete refurb thrown in.)

“Nigel Howarth is back to his best”, cooking “superb food” at this country inn (“don’t confuse it for a pub, it’s an excellent proper restaurant”) since coming out of retirement three years ago (he made his name as chef-patron for 30+ years at the nearby Ribble Valley culinary heavyweight, Northcote). He certainly hasn’t lost his touch, with one reporter saying he “preferred this to Northcote”; another asked “How has this not been awarded a Michelin star?”. Still a mover-and-shaker in gastronomic circles, Nigel hosted the week-long Fusion 2 festival of prominent chefs last autumn – one of whom was his son Kirk Howarth, of London’s vegan sensation Plates.